I am thrilled to announce that today is the official e-commerce launch of Sunday Intimates, a new full-bust brand based in Los Angeles that offers bras in sizes 28-34 D-H (UK cup sizes, which include DD, FF, and GG).  I met Tannis Mann and Simonette Lowy, the founders of Sunday Intimates, at Curve NY in August, where their beautiful, incredibly stylish full-bust lingerie and loungewear absolutely blew me away. I have literally been saving money to buy my own set ever since.

I’m also delighted to share with you an exclusive interview with Tannis and Simonette.  Spoiler: I’m in awe of both these ladies.  Not only are they just about the nicest people on the planet, their knowledge of the market, their fresh and beautiful sense of style, and their passion for the product and future customers is really inspiring.

“Lolita” bra and high-waist brief with “Sara” kimono jacket by Sunday Intimates

How did you all meet?  When did you realize your shared interest in full-bust lingerie was something you wanted to pursue professionally?

TANNIS: We met in the seventh grade during a dance class at school. We were doing jazz walks across the floor, when Simonette said to me, “You go, girl!” It was instant friendship.

SIMONETTE: We were both late bloomers. We didn’t fill this niche (literally) until college. We would come back home during vacation time and talk about how we couldn’t find bras that fit us properly. Back then, we were shopping at Victoria’s Secret and didn’t realize that this size range even existed. As we became better informed about the lingerie market, we realized we could find bras in our size, but none that met our aesthetic needs and desires. We wanted to wear bras that fit and supported us, while still being fun and hip. We wished we could design our own bras and, when we both found ourselves looking to make a career change, we decided to take a leap of faith and start Sunday Intimates.

Do you have a fashion or design background?  How have your previous careers and interests helped shape the creation of Sunday Intimates?

TANNIS: Zero. And it has been a huge learning curve for us. Sure, we grew up in Los Angeles and have always shared an interest in fashion and design, but I was working at a talent agency prior to this.

SIMONETTE: And I was working at an arts and cultural museum.

TANNIS: That said, we had vision and we both appreciate visual mediums. We are both dancers. I studied film in college and Simonette studied art history. We can see designs in our minds before bringing them to fruition.

SIMONETTE: In some ways, not coming from a fashion background is a strength for us. We had different perspectives on business, which have helped guide our decision-making process in this endeavor. But, we are new to this and continue to learn more every day about the business and ourselves.

TANNIS: We have, also, been so lucky to have supportive friends and family who have served as resources and sounding boards to us when we’ve come up against new challenges.

What are some of your inspirations for your first collection?  Are there any particular people, places, images, films, or songs that really captured the look you were going for?

SIMONETTE: We really love how women were presented particularly in the 40s and 50s—this idea that curves are sexy and beautiful. It’s disappointing to us how this notion has evolved over time in the media and we wanted to bring back the retro ideals of beauty and femininity.

TANNIS: But, we still wanted it to feel fresh and modern! We started off researching pin-up artists, such as Gil Elvgren and Vargas. Taking inspiration from their work, we designed a collection that celebrates the female form, made up of beautiful pieces that we wanted to wear.

I really love the name: it feels like lingerie I want to wear an on an ordinary day, yet it’s something special and unusual all at the same time.  Will we see other bras besides the Monday and Tuesday inspired by different days of the week?

TANNIS: The name came from the Etta James song, “Sunday Kind of Love.” We were drawn to this idea of “a love to last past Saturday night.” The same is true of our collection. They are sexy pieces that work for the boudoir, but they are also meant for you to live your life in. Form and function.

The UK has been a major leader in the full-bust market for a long time, so it’s really exciting to have a new brand that’s designed and made in the USA.  How did you decide manufacture locally?  Have there been any unique challenges or opportunities?

SIMONETTE: We are so proud to produce in Los Angeles and support our local economy. Plus, we can go check up our production regularly and ensure things are up to our standards. This luxury is not without its challenges, though. Our bras are more expensive to sew than ones sewn outside of the US. This drives up the purchase price of our product, which has not been an easy sell to retailers. We hope that retailers and consumers recognize the importance of buying/selling local-made goods and will support our growth.

TANNIS: It was also difficult to find a factory to take on our production. The apparel industry in LA is driven by denim and swimwear. You tell people you want to manufacture intimates and they look at you like you’re from Mars. Fortunately, we landed somewhere with a positive outlook and capable hands.

What’s it been like preparing for the launch?  How did you go about sourcing materials and production venues?  Did you face any challenges in terms of developing the full size range or any particular style?

SIMONETTE: It has been a rewarding experience for us, but has had many ups and downs. As we said, we had to start from scratch when it came to developing the product. We did a lot of research and asked many questions. We visited textile showrooms around town and had swatches sent to us from anywhere and everywhere—Belgium, Italy, Japan, New Jersey…

TANNIS: The size range was definitely a challenge. We, originally, planned to carry 36 and 38 bands in addition to what we currently stock. There were so many complications involved though and we had to scale it back and come to terms with start-up/indie brand reality. Down the road, we’d love to expand our size range.

Have there been any surprises along the way, pleasant or otherwise?

SIMONETTE: Many surprises! Everyone warned us that nothing happens as you expect in this industry and even with that advice in our heads, it can still come as a shock. We find that all of our deadlines come and go and we almost always have to reevaluate our plans. I would say that everyday something unexpected happens. Sometimes it’s great news and sometimes it’s not so good. It has been such a learning curve for us to adapt, change, and learn how to just get it all done against the odds.

We are lucky to have each other. When one of us is down, the other can build her back up. Our process is a dialogue with multiple opinions and visions, allowing us to create something different and special.

Knowing what you know now, what’s the single biggest piece of advice you’d give an aspiring independent full-bust designer?

TANNIS: Ask us in five years! We’re still on the receiving end of that spectrum! If we had to offer one piece of advice, it would be to be flexible. Things aren’t always going to turn out how you want, but if you are amenable to change, there is always a solution.

The full-bust world has grown so much over the last few years, but even with all the new players and new designs, Sunday still feels really special and unique: sophisticated and luxurious without being stodgy or dated, fresh and fashion-focused without being frilly or girlish.  I assume this was deliberate, so I’d love to know: who is the Sunday customer?  For having such a unique look, I feel like the brand has the potential for really broad appeal.

SIMONETTE: Thank you! It’s so nice to hear that, because we wanted to create an ageless lifestyle collection. We think our debut line achieves this goal—Your mom would feel completely at ease in a Sunday Intimates bra, but your younger sister would love to rock it as well. We decided a while back to write our version of, “Who is the Sunday Girl?” (See below)

“She is sexy yet approachable. She is nostalgic for the past but looks forward to her exciting future. She is comfortable in her own skin but enjoys slipping on Sunday Intimates at any moment, for any occasion.”

Apart from your website, where else can customers find Sunday Intimates?

TANNIS: While you can only find the bras and undies on our website, we are pleased to announce that ModCloth.com began carrying a selection of our sleepwear in January.

Tannis Mann and Simonette Lowy of Sunday Intimates

Your first collection was so stunning I can’t wait to see what’s next!  Do you have any goals for future seasons, in terms of the kinds of garments and the sizes you offer?  Any major design inspirations for 2014?

TANNIS: Like we said, we hope to expand our size range and, eventually, we’d love to add swimwear into the mix. More immediately, we just redesigned our website to accommodate e-commerce and our new lifestyle blog.

Billy longline bra and high-waist brief by Sunday Intimates for Fall/Winter 2014

SIMONETTE: For AW14, expect to see something a bit more sultry and dark. We took inspiration from Film Noir, so it’s definitely a different vibe from SS14. For sneak peaks, make sure to follow us on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook and the new blog.

A huge thank you to Tannis and Simonette for sharing the Sunday journey with us!  The Sunday Intimates e-commerce site goes live today, and you can begin placing preorders.  Bras are available in sizes 28 DD-H and 30-34 D-H (UK cup sizes: D, DD, E, F, FF, G, GG, H), knickers in sizes XS-L, and loungewear in sizes S, M, L, and S/M or M/L.  I can’t wait to place my order!  Which style from the lookbook catches your eye? 

Now that April is here, and my thoughts are turning to Spring cleaning, brighter days, warmer temperatures, and budding flowers, I’m beginning to cast a stern and appraising eye at my lingerie drawer. I’ve got some bras that are pushing two years old, and they are TIRED. I had a little surplus money in my budget earlier this year and placed some orders for bras that filled the important gaps in my wardrobe (reviews to come!), and even though I’m feeling pretty set now, the styles that are in stores today are just so bright and cheerful I can’t help but wish I could stretch my budget a bit further. After a very long and very, very cold winter, these cute sets will put a little spring in your step (pun fully intended, obviously).

Elomi’s “Megan”

Elomi Megan Longline Bra and Brief. 34-40 E-H (UK), M-4XL. Banded bra available 36-42 E-JJ, 44 E-G.

I haven’t seen the full size range for this longline available at many stores, and with no longline style for the Elomi customer in the A/W14 collection, I suspect this might be the last one we’ll see. It’s a shame; I can’t help but feel like this style didn’t really get a fair shake. The size range covers only a portion of the Elomi customer base, and the prints have been either divisive (S/S13) or lackluster (S/S14). Still, I’m eager to take Megan out for a spin: I like the darker blue background shade, and while the print doesn’t set my soul on fire, it’s … fine. Inoffensive. Fine. As the only non-padded G+ longline bra with boning I’ve ever seen, I’m going to get mine while the getting’s good.

Panache’s “Clara”

Panache Clara in Turkish Delight. 30-38 D-J (UK), XS-XXL

Clara is so, so beautiful. I think it’s one of Panache’s best new bras of the last few years. Even though the style doesn’t work terribly well for me, I still recommend it wholeheartedly (after all, we don’t all have the same boobs), and I seriously can’t wait for the staggeringly pretty gold/black version for A/W14.

Curvy Kate’s “Daisy Chain”

Curvy Kate Daisy Chain in Sherbet/Rose. 28-38 D-J (UK), 8-22 (UK)

I’ll have a full review to come, but spoiler: this is the best Curvy Kate style I’ve ever tried, and has quickly become one of my favorite sets in my current rotation. While I initially wanted to try the black version from the Winter, the pretty Sherbet/Rose colorway just screams Spring.

Fantasie’s “Susanna”

Fantasie Susanna in Sea Breeze. 30-38 D-H, 40 DD-G, 42 DD-F (UK), XS-XXL

Susanna is (I think) one of the best bras in Fantasie’s current roster. True, it can look a bit frumpy on the rack, but it gives a centered, round, uplifted shape, and I’ve seen it work really well for women across a wide range of sizes, shapes, and ages. I love this beautiful soft green– it has a lovely antique feel, yet still seems fresh and light.

Cleo’s “Marcie”

Cleo Marcie in Sunshine. 28-38 D-J (UK), XS-XXL

This bra is an unstoppable force of adorable. Appearing in one eye-catching color after another, season after season, Marcie is a winner. While I know yellow can be divisive (hell, I can’t wear it without looking seasick, so I’m giving this season’s version a pass), it’s undeniably sunny and bright, as well as a welcome change from the expected Springtime pinks and pastels.

Freya’s “Ooh La La”

Freya Ooh La La Bodysuit in Blush. 30-38 D-G (UK)

As Miss Underpinnings and I noted in our trend report for Autumn/Winter 2014, the bodysuit is poised to be one of the next big shape trends for the full-bust crowd. Get in early with this light, lovely sheer mesh underwired bodysuit from Freya.

Parfait’s “Louisa”

Parfait Louisa Bra in Poppy Blue. 30-40 D-G (UK), XS-XL

Louisa was one of my favorite looks from the Spring/Summer 2014 runway presentation, and my love remains undimmed. Parfait continues to impress me with their prints. True, their styles aren’t really avant garde or trend-setting, but they’re distinctive and really stand out against the typical ditsy florals or zany neons. These blue poppies set on a crisp white background (there’s also a red poppy version) totally charm me.

Sunday Intimates’ “Dottie”

“Dottie” by Sunday Intimates. 28-34 DD-H (UK), XS-L

It’s not a secret that I love Sunday Intimates’ designs, and this set is no exception. The pretty blush color is beautifully vintage and classic, but let’s be real: when have I ever been able to resist polka dots?

Claudette’s “Odette”

Claudette Odette in Blondie/Hot Coral. 28-38 A-G (UK), XS-XL

Longline bra, pretty lace, suspender undies, neutral/neon color pairing? This set hits all of my sweet spots.

Happy Spring shopping, and enjoy the sunshine!

[UPDATED: See note below] As a follow-up to Wednesday’s list of colorful and embellished Spring styles, I thought it would be nice to take a look at some of the equally lovely neutral shades that are available this Spring. Stylists are fond of reminding us to wear “nude” bras under sheer, white, and pastel tops, and while I really hate it when people call beige “nude” (because no one’s skin tone is beige, and not everyone has light skin), lots of people do prefer to find a bra that’s at least close to their skin tone so that it “disappears” under lighter, warmer-weather clothes. While it’s easy to reach for a plain, molded t-shirt bra, I tend to veer away from minimalism, so this list features pretty full-bust bras in shades of cream, brown, sand, gray, and ivory, all of which have a little something extra to make them special. No boring basics here: these sets work equally well as both neutrals and fashion styles.

Bravissimo’s “Rococo Charm”

Rococo Charm by Bravissimo in Ivory/Blue. 28-38 DD-HH, XS-2XL.

This is stunning. I ADORE the contrasting navy embroidery– it’s sophisticated and unexpected.

Panache’s “Tango”

Panache Tango Balconette in Chocolate. 28 D-J, 30-40 D-K, 42 D-J, 44 D-G. XS-2XL.

Tango has been around forever in a huge range of sizes, and this season it gets an update with contrasting ombré fern embroidery and a jaunty chocolate/pink color pairing.

Freya’s “Enchanted”

Freya Enchanted. 28-38 D-HH, XS-2XL.

While Freya hasn’t been working so well for me lately, I really, really like the contrasting aqua bows and embroidery of this new style (and I LOVE the white version, with orange trims).

Freya’s “Deco Delight”

Freya Deco Delight in Dove. 28-30 D-GG, 32-38 B-GG, XS-2XL.

The beige and black versions of Deco are hugely popular as full-bust basics, featuring super-round cups and a dramatic, plunging center gore. I like this season’s pretty gray version, trimmed with ivory lace (which I really, really wish continued all the way around the band and onto the straps. When in doubt, more lace). It’s a soft, cool look, and the straps feature a J-hook, so that it converts to a racer-back: perfect for summer tank tops!

Panache’s “Envy”

Panache Envy. 30-38 D-K, XS-2XL.

For a so-called basic style, Envy is a stunner (review of the black version here). The high-waist shaping brief looks both retro/pin-up and very contemporary, and the silky soft fabric has a beautiful, elegant sheen. The soft stretch lace gives fantastic support up to a K-cup.

Bravissimo’s “Alana”

Alana by Bravissimo in Mocha. 28 DD-J, 30 DD-KK, 32-40 DD-L. XS-2XL.

Alana was Bravissimo’s first-ever in-house style, and it’s been with the company ever since. The style is vailable up to an L-cup in some band sizes, as well as a great range of shades (including this season’s neon Orangeade), and this lovely mocha is available as a beautiful continuity color.

Claudette’s “Dessous” in Sand and Godiva

Claudette Dessous in Sand. 28 D-G, 30-38 A-G, XS-XL.

Claudette Dessous in Godiva. 28 D-G, 30-38 A-G, XS-XL.

Claudette are masters of the non-boring neutral. I particularly love how they paired this season’s “Blondie” and “Godiva” with hot coral trims. Not feeling the neon? Check out the Sand/Navy colorway, for something a little more sedate but equally sophisticated.

Elomi’s “Bijou”

Elomi Bijou. 34 F-H, 36-42 E-H, 44 E-G, M-4XL.

Elomi gives the full-figure customer her own version of “Deco” this season, with Bijou’s smooth, molded cups and plunging center front.

Just Peachy’s “Lana”

Just Peachy Lana in Denim/Cream. 30-38 DD-G, 8-18.

Just Peachy is one of Figleaves’ exclusive brands, offering pretty, delicate D-G styles at incredibly reasonable prices. This pretty sheer bra with contrasting blue embroidery is only $30!

Fantasie’s “Rebecca Nouveau”

Fantasie Rebecca Nouveau. 30-36 D-GG, 38 D-G, 40 D-FF, XS-XL.

I love Rebecca, and a lot of my fit clients do too: the spacer fabric is light and breathable, there are no seams to show under clinging fabrics, and it conforms beautifully to your body. This season sees the introduction of a beautiful black-and-ivory version (it will be available this Fall too, just with the color scheme reversed) featuring floral embroidery and pretty bows. A winner!

[Note: All of these bras are in UK sizes, so the cup size progression goes like this: D, DD, E, F, FF, G, GG, H, HH, J, JJ, K, KK, L. Happy shopping!]

UPDATE: About ten minutes after publishing this I found a great post from The Curves Have It, published yesterday (great minds think alike? Lingerie blogger mind meld?], speaking passionately about the many problems with equating beige and nude. Many (but not all) of the designers/brands in this list use the terms interchangeably, including some of the big guns like Panache and Freya. If this bothers you as much as it bothers her and me, please reach out to your favorite brands and speak up on social media, using the hashtag #nudeisnotbeige. It’s 2014: we can do better.

Noir Tankini by Midnight Grace. 30-38 D-GG (UK) ($54), bikini 8-18 (UK) ($27)

Like Lulu Tout, the new brand I reviewed last month, Midnight Grace is a brand that is exclusive to lingerie retail powerhouse Figleaves. I’ve been so pleased to see them expand their in-house offerings, and they now offer the D+ customer a great range of pieces to suit different styles and occasions. The Midnight Grace label includes both swim and daywear (check out their first lookbook in this post), and I was really delighted when Figleaves offered me the chance to try a Spring style of my choosing. My Panache Tallulah bikini from last season is in perfect condition and still fits well (I don’t get to swim or go to the beach as much as I’d like to), so I asked if I could try the darling navy blue “Noir” tankini, for a swim option with a little more coverage.

[NOTE: While Figleaves generously provided this set for review, all thoughts and opinions are my own]

Appearance

Add to file: Sweets’ worst smartphone pictures.

This suit is a classic: the I love the nautical navy + red + gold button trim, the halter neck and ruffle trim are flattering, supportive, and evocative of pin-up styling, and the tankini style offers coverage with a flexible fit. I knew wanted a smooth, streamlined look, so I opted for the button bikini brief instead of the ruffle brief. For those who aren’t tankini fans, there’s also an underwired bikini top and an underwired convertible bandeau top, all in the same 30-38 D-GG size range.

Fit

Midnight Grace uses UK cup sizes, so the cup size progression goes D, DD, E, F, FF, G, GG. While Noir isn’t available in my usual size, I knew I wanted to try one band size larger anyway (more room for my middle), so I requested my sister size (one band size up and one cup size down), as well as the briefs in my usual (i.e., Panache/Curvy Kate size, as opposed to Bravissimo/Eveden size).  At the time I didn’t know that for some people  Midnight Grace runs small in both band and cup, so I was optimistic about having a comfortable, relaxed suit for lounging this summer.

Unfortunately, I did find both the band and cup to run small. The band fit more like my usual size, which is great for support, of course, but it does mean that it fits quite snugly over my belly. In addition, there’s a lot of tension across the back of the suit, and as a result the top edge of the back curls under and flips down instead of lying flat and smoothly across my back.

Even more than the back, though, the cups are noticeably small: the gore doesn’t tack, and the top of the cups digs into my breast tissue, causing bulges. They feel at least a full size small, and I’d strongly recommend anyone used to Eveden and Panache cuts to experiment with different sizes.

Comfort

Sometimes a bra or a swimsuit is so comfortable that getting a 100% perfect fit just isn’t a priority.  For example, even though the spotted suit I wore in my first boudoir shoot (which also came from Figleaves) isn’t my true size, it’s incredibly fun to wear to the beach, or even swimming some slow, lazy laps in the pool. I’m sad to say that I can’t really say the same for Noir. It’s just not a great fit for me, both in terms of technical bra fit and in terms of shape and style. I feel squished and unsupported, and after only a few minutes of wear I start to feel like I need to tug and adjust everything.

The back features an internal bra that closes with two rows of three columns of hooks and eyes.

Noir is really adorable, and I might totally wear it if I ever do another photoshoot, but I know I’d be fidgeting with it all day if I tried to wear it to the beach.  Furthermore, while halter-neck styles tend to be flattering and supportive to a larger bust, they take a lot of weight and place it directly on the back of your neck, which can really strain after a while.

Overall, I’d advise those who want to try this style to size up in both band and cup.  It looks really, really cute, but be prepared for a little back and forth to find the size you like the best.

Also, don’t forget that Figleaves is running a Spring promotion right now: the discount code “TWENTY” gets you 20% off all full-price items.

You know those chocolate oranges? I used to get them at Christmas ever year. They are some of my favorite things in the entire world, and I can’t buy them for myself unless I plan to share with other people, because I will eat a whole orange in a day. There is something about the combination of orange and chocolate that just GETS IT RIGHT. Chocolate really is a wonder ingredient: great on its own, but fantastic in combination with literally almost anything else: citrus, berries, caramel, nuts, salt, toffee, cheese…oh chocolate. I love you.

This is seriously one of my all-time favorite recipes. I gave up dessert for Lent (I know, who am I, and what have I done with the real Sweets?), but I made these cupcakes for an event one recent Sunday and froze the leftovers. After this coming Sunday (happy Easter to those who celebrate!) I’ll be savoring every sweet, sweet, bite. The cake bakes up moist and dense, the frosting is smooth and fluffy and rich, and… wait, let me show you:

I don’t need to say anything else, really.

This recipe makes 1 two-layer cake or about 20-24 cupcakes. If you go the cupcake route, you will probably have a TON of leftover frosting, so feel free to frost generously. And then lick the bowl, of course.

Lavender-Scented Chocolate (Cup)Cake(s) with Chocolate-Orange Buttercream
this recipe comes from the March 2004 Bon Appétit, by way of Epicurious, and I didn’t change a danged thing

For the Cake:

4 oz. (1/4 lb.) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
1 1/2 c. all-purpose flour
1/2 c. unsweetened cocoa powder
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. coarse kosher salt
1/4 tsp. baking soda
1/2 c. whole milk, room temperature
1/2 c. plain whole-milk yogurt (I used thick Greek yogurt, because that’s what I had in the fridge), room temperature
1 1/2 c. (packed) brown sugar
3/4 c. (1 1/2 sticks or 12 tbsp.) unsalted butter, room temperature
2 teaspoons dried lavender blossoms (yep, I still have so much lavender), finely ground in spice mill or coffee grinder (this is optional, but it does add a really nice light flavor)
4 large eggs, room temperature

For the Buttercream Frosting

8 oz. (1/2 lb.) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
1/2 c. unsweetened cocoa powder
7 tbsps. (or more) water
1 1/2 c. (3 sticks or 3/4 lb.) unsalted butter, room temperature
4 c. powdered sugar, divided
1 tbsp. grated orange peel
2 tsps. vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. coarse kosher salt
1 tbsp. Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur (optional)

Make the cake:

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. If making a layer cake, line the bottom of two 9″ round cake pans with parchment paper, then lightly spray with cooking spray. If making cupcakes, line muffin tins with paper liners.

Melt 4 oz. bittersweet or semisweet chocolate in a double boiler (or as I do, in the microwave, because I’m impatient) and stir until smooth. Allow chocolate to cool until lukewarm but still pourable.

Sift the flour, 1/2 c. cocoa powder, baking powder, salt, and baking soda over a piece of waxed paper; set aside.

Whisk together milk and yogurt; set aside.

Beat butter, brown sugar, and lavender (if using) together in the bowl of an electric mixer at medium speed until smooth, light, and fluffy, about 3 minutes.  Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the sifted dry ingredients and the milk/yogurt mixture to the batter alternately in three additions. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula, then mix again on medium speed for 30 seconds until fully combined.

Divide batter evenly between cake pans, or, if making cupcakes, fill each cup nearly to the top. Bake the cakes in preheated oven, about 30 minutes for layer cakes and 20-25 minutes for cupcakes, until a tester inserted in the center of a cake comes out nearly clean (being careful not to overbake). Allow cakes to cool at room temperature for 10 minutes, then invert onto a wire rack and let cool completely.

For the buttercream frosting:

Melt 8 oz. semisweet or bittersweet chocolate over low heat in a double boiler or microwave and stir until smooth. Set aside at room temperature to cool until lukewarm but still pourable. Whisk together seven tablespoons of water and 1/2 c. cocoa powder in a small saucepan over low heat. Continue to whisk until mixture is thick and smooth, adding more water a spoonful at a time if necessary. Allow cocoa mixture to cool to lukewarm.

Beat butter, grated orange peel, and 1/3 c. confectioner’s in the bowl of an electric mixer at medium-high speed until smooth, light, and fluffy.  Add melted chocolate, salt, and vanilla extract and beat on medium speed for 2 minutes. Beat in the cocoa mixture. Gradually beat in the remaining 3 2/3 c. confectioner’s sugar until completely combined. Beat in Grand Marnier, if using.

If making a layer cake, spread a generous cup of buttercream evenly on top of one cake layer. Top with the second cake layer, and spread remaining frosting over top and sides of assembled cake.  If making cupcakes, fill a pastry bag fitted with a large star tip with buttercream and pipe generous swirls atop each cupcake. Just before serving, garnish with strips of orange zest.

Nom.

If you’re not serving the cake the same day you make it, refrigerate, covered, for up to two days. Allow to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.

Enjoy!

*****

What better lingerie to pair with totally decadent cupcakes than the totally decadent “Amelie” collection from Miss Mandalay?

“Amelie” by Miss Mandalay in Paprika/Black (£46). Available in sizes 28 – 38 E-GG (UK cup sizes). Matching brief (£28) and thong (£30) in sizes XS-XL.

I am still so, so sad that my budget didn’t allow me to snatch up the black/navy version while H-cups were still in stock, because sadly this sassy new version only runs up to a GG. Still, it feels churlish to complain, because Miss Mandalay makes some of the loveliest D+ bras out there. This UK-based indie full-bust brand revels in bold colors and thoughtful details, in this case gleaming satin and elegant black stretch lace. I got to try this bra on at Journelle in almost-the-right-size, and it is PHENOMENAL: a narrow, upfront, centered shape with a totally luxurious feel. I have loved this brand for years now, and I think they just keep going from strength to strength. If you’re a fan too, be sure to check out Kiss Me Deadly’s most recent collections, which will feature suspender belts designed to go with Miss Mandalay lingerie. A great chance for D+ ladies to have a full Kiss Me Deadly ensemble!

I participate in a few private Facebook groups for lingerie professionals and enthusiasts, and by and large I’ve had nothing but pleasant experiences. I get to see so many different sides to the industry: other bloggers participate, yes, but I also hear from journalists, educators, retailers, designers, and marketing representatives. It’s so valuable to learn not only how bras and other lingerie pieces are created, made, and sold, but also to get a glimpse of all of the challenges and opportunities that arise along the way for everyone involved in the industry.

“Snow in September” camisole by I.D. Sarrieri at the Atelier at Journelle

Recently I read a conversation that really took me aback (I’m paraphrasing from memory, and I’m also deliberately fudging details to hide identities): a retailer tagged a fellow retailer in a post linking to an informal peer survey about the “worst/most difficult” customers to have in a bra fitting, and several other group members joined the thread, laughing in agreement.  So who’s the worst customer in a lingerie boutique?  A bra blogger.

Ouch.

I won’t lie, it kind of sucked to read that. My neuroses already do a good job of reminding me that I’m a problem customer, thanks. Between my height and my big feet and hands and my broad shoulders and thick waist and big boobs, yeah, don’t worry, I already know I’m a difficult fit in most stores, let alone in lingerie boutiques. Good to know my industry peers think I’m obnoxious, too, right?

On the other hand, if I’m really honest with myself, yeah, I’m kind of a defensive know-it-all when I go to a lingerie boutique. I’ve wearied of being offered a REAL, PROFESSIONAL!!! bra fitting, or being condescendingly asked if I’m aware that 80% of women wear the wrong size, over and over and OVER again. I’m tired of hearing “We carry all sizes!” only to learn that cup sizes stop at an F, or band sizes stop at a 40. It’s frustrating when I tell someone my size and specify the country of manufacture (UK vs. US vs. Europe), only to receive a handful of bras that are not the correct size (and are usually far too small). It makes me want to shop entirely online and deal with shipping/return hassles, or else grit my teeth and clench my shoulders in preparation for a shopping trip filled with disappointment and misunderstandings.

All that is kind of a terrible lead up to an absolutely WONDERFUL boutique shopping experience I had recently.

I received an invitation this Spring to try the Atelier at Journelle. Journelle is one of my favorite lingerie boutiques in New York City, and the Atelier offers a luxurious private shopping experience, with one-on-one attention from a fitter, mimosas, tea, sweet treats, and a fitting room generously stocked with a personalized selection of lingerie (plus a snuggly robe to wear between try-ons).

I made my appointment enthusiastically and sent along my sizes, but as the day approached, I grew increasingly nervous and apprehensive. I’d never once seen my size, or one of my “go-to” brands, in stock at Journelle. Journelle carries beautiful (largely European, although there are other international and US brands) lingerie and loungewear at prices that fall firmly into the “luxury” category of my budget. While there are some great mid-range offerings (like a lovely selection of Claudette, Evollove, and Gossard bras), these brands don’t make my size. I once came close to special-ordering a Miss Mandalay bra, but unfortunately my budget just didn’t allow it. Based on what I remembered from visits to Journelle with fit clients, I was afraid that my “too-big” body was, “as usual”,  going to be a problem (note: I put the scare quotes in deliberately; my body is my body, and it is just fine the way it is, but sometimes my brain tells me otherwise).

I would have taken a picture with my mimosa but I drank it.

The Atelier is based in Journelle’s corporate headquarters in Chelsea, and, as Miss Underpinnings said upon our arrival, “I feel like I got more feminine just by walking in here.” The air smells of delicate linden blossoms (Journelle’s signature scent), and the walls are hung with gorgeous examples of some of the pieces Journelle has to offer, from everyday classics like Cosabella and Hanky Panky to more sophisticated styles from Chantal Thomass and Maison Lejaby all the way through to the truly luxurious and indulgent like Bordelle and I.D. Sarrieri.  One wall featured cheerful Spring styles, while another featured a collection of delicate white lingerie that would make a gorgeous bridal trousseau. After giving us a while to check out all the offerings on display, we were each guided to a fitting room.

My personalized bra selection. From left to right: Maison Lejaby, All Undone, Miss Mandalay, Triumph, and Evollove

I found a generous selection of G and G+ bras in my fitting room, certainly more than I expected to see, including the really stunning-in-person “Lottie” by All Undone. Even though All Undone doesn’t make my size, just getting to try it on, even in a cup size too small, was a real treat (my quick take: this felt extra small, even in the wrong size, as well as quite shallow. I’d recommend sizing up in the cups, especially if you’re between sizes). I started with Lottie, as I’d been itching to try All Undone, and then … I wasn’t sure what to do. I looked at a wall of bras that I was sure were too small for me, and began to get that creeping feeling of self-consciousness and embarrassment that’s been my shopping companion since middle school. There was Miss Underpinnings, trying on Claudette and Mimi Holliday and All Undone and looking completely darling, and there were the two Journelle staff members looking all fabulous and chic and slender, and then there was … me, with my giant self (or so my brain was telling me).

And then Allison, Journelle’s lovely Marketing Director, swanned over in MY NEW FAVORITE ROBE, literally took it off her own back so I could try it on, and said “I really think you should try the Maison Lejaby, as our fitters find that it runs really nice and deep in the cups.”

I feigned enthusiasm, but I felt like I was about to start crying. Once I passed a certain bra size, I pretty much wrote off European brands. A European G-cup is equivalent to a UK F-cup, so this definitely wasn’t going to work, right?

I don’t normally share my bra size, but since it’s relevant to the story, I’ve been wearing a UK 34H pretty consistently over the last year. I’ve lost a little weight in the last two months, so sometimes it’s a 34GG, but with very few exceptions, 34H has been the best size. The Maison Lejaby bra? A 36G. My Europe-UK conversion chart tells me that a Euro 36G “should” be a 36F in UK brands. AND OH, THIS BRA FITS SO BEAUTIFULLY.

By all accounts it shouldn’t! Everything I’ve ever held to be true tells me that a European 36G should be way, WAY too small in the cups– like, four or five cup sizes too small. Truthfully I think I’d probably be happiest in a 34H in Maison Lejaby (which is bananas– a French 34H and a UK 34H are usually NOT the same size), but this particular style stops at a G-cup, so I’m happy to sister size and wear it on the middle hooks instead of the loosest because the bra is black and it’s lace and it’s soft and it’s sexy and it gives a beautifully rounded shape and the straps are beautiful and seriously why aren’t there more good non-padded black lace bras in a UK 34H anywhere?  Ahem.  The point is, if I hadn’t forced myself to listen to a new fitter and try something out of my comfort zone, I would have missed out on a truly fantastic bra.

My Atelier picks: “Layla” by Miss Mandalay and “Idole” by Maison Lejaby, and oh gosh this picture is so terrible

All in all, I tried on five bras (Simone Perele, Maison Lejaby, and Miss Mandalay) that were great fits, or were at least close fits. I wanted to take home two full sets (and the Dear Bowie robe, of course), but I eventually decided to get the Maison Lejaby black lace bra (sorry Miss Mandalay, I’m just not a white lingerie girl).  It was a definite splurge for me (even with, full disclosure, a press discount), and I tried it on again when I got home, fully expecting that I’d decide to return it as an impulse purchase. Yeah, no, not gonna happen. This is a bra that was worth the splurge: the wires are a perfect fit for my boobs (Panache and Eveden are often too wide), the cups are deep and very rounded, the center gore tacks beautifully, and the lace-edged top of the cup lies smoothly with no digging. I feel totally sexy wearing such a delicate, decidedly French bra, and if my budget allows it in the future (DOUBTFUL, alas), I’d love to invest in the matching knickers. It was also super comfortable on the first day of wear at work, with no digging or slipping.

Yours truly, wearing “Layla” by Miss Mandalay and the “Kate” maxi robe by Dear Bowie, which is currently topping my “when I win the lottery lingerie wishlist”.  It looks like silk chiffon and feels like pajamas. It’s the best. Oh! There’s my mimosa! Found it.

I think my takeaway from the two experiences, firstly being shamed for being a “problem customer” and secondly taking a chance on a brand/size outside my comfort zone, is to check in with yourself and trust your gut. I don’t think there’s any need to try to force a fitting experience to be a good one, especially if you’re getting bad vibes or you’re made to feel that you’re being difficult or annoying. On the other hand, if you’re getting otherwise great service, why not give something new a try, even if you’re sure it’s not going to work? After the success of the Maison Lejaby, I tried on an Evollove G-cup and a Chantelle G-cup, and yeah, those suckers were too small, as I would have expected. But because I listened to my fitter, now I have this totally awesome black lace bra that I can add to my stash of “Lingerie for when I become a fabulous lady detective in Australia in the 1920s“.

“Rockin’ Josephine” by Chantal Thomass. We just thought this was adorable.

The Atelier at Journelle is open by appointment only. Journelle has several NYC locations, as well as e-commerce. If you see a bra you want and it looks like your size is unavailable, just give Customer Service a call, and they can call up additional sizes from their brick-and-mortar locations, as well as place special orders.

I nearly missed Sweet Nothings’ first birthday last year, because I was so busy watching Captain America in my jammies and writing a cranky post about True & Co. This year, as we turn 2, I wanted to get started a day early so I could take the time to thank each and every one of you who has made Sweet Nothings what it is today. Your comments, Facebook messages, questions, criticisms, tweets, emails, and other responses are thoughtful, funny, and wise, and even if you prefer to read in silence and anonymity, I really and truly appreciate every single member of this little community. I always assumed I’d be writing for myself and a circle of five friends from college who were used to my nattering on about underwear, so realizing that people are reading from different states, let alone different countries, is truly humbling. Today’s post really isn’t about me, it’s about you, and to that end, I want to give you some presents!

I’m particularly grateful to both Dottie’s Delights and A Sophisticated Pair, who have generously matched my contributions to bring you these lovely prizes.  The giveaways won’t go live until tomorrow, the day of my actual blog anniversary, but I’ll go ahead and spill the beans:

GRAND PRIZES:

• One USD$50 gift certificate to A Sophisticated Pair (generously co-sponsored by A Sophisticated Pair) plus one full-size bottle of Eucalan Delicate Wash (generously donated by Eucalan) (USA/Canada only)

• One USD$100 gift certificate to Dottie’s Delights (generously co-sponsored by Dottie’s Delights) (International)

ALSO, YOU’RE ALL WINNERS

While I sadly don’t have the means to buy gift cards for everyone (Gus and Ruby still need their dinner, after all), I do want to honor each and every one of you. To that end, I have made a $100 donation to RAINN in the name of the Sweet Nothings community. RAINN is the USA’s largest anti-sexual violence organization. Their work includes educational programs, support networks, crisis hotlines, counseling, and recovery advice.

Want to win some lovely undies?  Come back tomorrow for instructions on how to enter!  The contests will go live at 7:00 a.m. EST on Friday, May 2 and will close at 11:59 p.m. EST on Thursday, May 8, 2014. I will announce the winners on Friday, May 9, at which point a winner will have 72 hours to claim her prize.

See you tomorrow!

“Evelyn Nesbit” Bra and Gartered Tap Pant by Dottie’s Delights

I just really want everyone who wants one to own a froofy robe, you know?

“Sheer Frou Frou Dressing Robe” by Dottie’s Delights

If fluffy ruffled peignoirs aren’t your thing, (A) can I have them? and (B) Dottie’s Delights offers so, so many other gorgeous, fun, vintage-inspired pieces, all handmade in the USA! Try a garter belt or sweeping gown or silk tap pants or a bra with vintage trims or some sassy knickers, or hold out for the amazing Fall/Winter 2014 collection, a collaboration with fetish model Mosh that I promise will knock your socks off. Stephanie also does custom work for a wide range of sizes, so if you don’t see your size in her store, or if, say, you have a full-bust bra you think might look amazing with some retro-style knickers, don’t be afraid to give a bespoke style a try!

“Floradora Girl” bra, garter belt, and low-rise knickers by Dottie’s Delights

You are entering to win:

• One USD$100 gift certificate to Dottie’s Delights (generously co-sponsored by Dottie’s Delights).  This gift certificate can be used towards any item in the Dottie’s Delights e-shop, as well as towards custom work.

To enter to win, please leave a comment on this post naming your absolute favorite Dottie’s Delight’s lingerie. To see them all, check out her e-shop, as well as her Facebook, Pinterest, and Instagram feeds for some peeks at past and current collections. I have lots of favorites, unsurprisingly, but I think the amazing Bricolage longline bra is totally dazzling, and I also love love love the red silk collection.

More fine print:

• This giveaway is open to USA AND INTERNATIONAL READERS.
• This giveaway is sponsored solely by Sweet Nothings and Dottie’s Delights.
• This prize is non-transferrable and may not be exchanged for cash.
• The contest will close at 11:59 p.m. EST on Thursday, May 8, 2014.
• ONE entry per person. I will assign each comment a sequential number and use a random number generator to select the winners. Please be sure to log in with a valid email address, so that I can verify that you are the winner. I will announce the winner on Friday, May 9, 2014. If I have not heard from a winner within 72 hours of the drawing, another winner will be selected.
• Once the winner claims her prize, I will coordinate delivery of the e-voucher with Dottie’s Delights.

GOOD LUCK!

Our first anniversary giveaway is from the exemplary A Sophisticated Pair in Burlington, North Carolina!

A Sophisticated Pair’s goal that “every woman finds a bra that fits her body, her needs, and her lifestyle perfectly” gets a gigantic A+ from me. Erica Windle offers compassionate, knowledgeable fitting advice across a wide range of sizes and styles (be sure to check out the store’s very own size calculator and great blog!), and you can even pre-order seasonal fashion styles and colors from your favorite brands! I placed a special order with her earlier this year for two styles I didn’t want to miss out on, and she’s just been so lovely to work with. Hopefully this gift card will get you on your way to your new favorite bra!

Eucalan makes non-toxic, biodegradable no-rinse delicate wash in a variety of scents. This product is totally safe for most lingerie as well as a number of other delicate fibers, so use this to keep your new goodies in tip-top shape!

This drawing is for

• One USD$50 gift certificate to A Sophisticated Pair (generously co-sponsored by A Sophisticated Pair) PLUS
• One full-size bottle of Eucalan Delicate Wash (generously donated by Eucalan) 

PLEASE NOTE: This prize is only available to residents of the US and Canada.

To enter to win, please leave a comment on this post with the style you’re most looking forward to for Fall/Winter 2014. Erica has written some great in-depth overviews of upcoming seasons from some of the brands she carries in-store, so be sure to check out the posts below to see what your favorite brands will offer!

Elomi
Goddess
Freya
Fantasie
Parisa
Claudette
Tia Lyn
Yummie Tummie
Curvy Kate
Affinitas & Parfait
Cake Lingerie (maternity)
Comexim
Panache
Cleo by Panache

My pick of the brands she’s covered so far is probably the cute Roxie camisole from Curvy Kate; what’s yours?

More fine print:

• This giveaway is open to residents of the USA and CANADA.
• This giveaway is sponsored solely by Sweet Nothings, A Sophisticated Pair, and Eucalan.
• This prize is non-transferrable and may not be exchanged for cash.
• The contest will close at 11:59 p.m. EST on Thursday, May 8, 2014.
• ONE entry per person. I will assign each comment a sequential number and use a random number generator to select the winners. Please be sure to log in with a valid email address, so that I can verify that you are the winner. I will announce the winner on Friday, May 9, 2014. If I have not heard from a winner within 72 hours of the drawing, another winner will be selected.
• Once the winner claims her prize, I will coordinate delivery of the e-voucher and Eucalan wash.

GOOD LUCK!

Congratulations to Donna M., winner of the $50 gift card to A Sophisticated Pair and the full-size bottle of Eucalan Delicate Wash, and congratulations to Andra-Maria, winner of the $100 gift card to Dottie’s Delights! Both winners have been contacted and have until Monday to confirm acceptance of their prizes.

Thank you all again for entering these giveaways, and even more so for reading and being a part of this community for the last two years. This wouldn’t be nearly as much fun without you. I wish you another year full of sweet treats and excellent underwear.

Xoxo,

Sweets

Today I’m excited to review one of the sets I selected for my Springtime full-bust round-up a few weeks ago: the beautiful Daisy Chain from Curvy Kate!

Curvy Kate Daisy Chain in Sherbet/Rose

While I’ve long liked Curvy Kate’s bright, colorful bras and wide variety of styles, I had a really hard time finding a style that gave me the fit, shape, and support I wanted. I’ve never had much luck with padded or half-cup styles, so the Showgirl styles and I just didn’t get along (even though the designs were right up my alley). Last year I had the chance to try the lovely Portia, which, while a definite improvement, still didn’t give me the lifted, centered feel I prefer. I wondered at the time if the mesh wasn’t quite supportive enough for my fuller boobs, and resolved to try one of Curvy Kate’s styles featuring a laminated fabric, which tends to be sturdier and offers more stability.

Curvy Kate offered me one of the new season styles to try, and I decided to go with Daisy Chain, a non-padded plunge bra available in sizes 28-38 D-J (UK). I’d originally hoped to try the black version from Fall/Winter, but alas, my size wasn’t available, so I decided to try this season’s Sherbet/Rose colorway.

[NOTE: Curvy Kate generously provided this set for review. All thoughts and opinions are my own.]

Appearance

Daisy Chain is a classic three-part cup with solid, laminated fabric on the two lower sections and a sheer embroidered top cup. Right off the bat, we need to talk about the color– this is not my first pick, I gotta say. I know that’s weird coming from someone who painted her bedroom pink, but I tend to keep pink out of my wardrobe.  I’m so pale, and my height and stature lean towards the grand rather than the girly, so pink just feels … odd, and a little juvenile, at least to me (although I LOVE it on others!). When I do choose pink lingerie, I go for peachy pinks, which feel more retro and vintage-inspired. I’d really hoped for the black version, because I wear a lot of black for work and a black plunge bra would have been a really useful addition to my wardrobe, but unfortunately it was sold out before Curvy Kate could ship it to me. This season’s Daisy Chain is a very light bubblegum pink, with contrasting dark pink embroidery. It’s very lovely, to be sure, but at 29 I feel like it really doesn’t fit well with the rest of my personal style

I love the sweet ribbon flowers trimming the briefs and center gore– this detail is much more fun than the traditional bow or rosette!

Fit

I wound up trying the bra and brief in what I think of as my “usual” size (same as I wear in most Panache styles). Based on my experience with Portia, I’d originally requested the bra in one cup size larger than my norm, but to my pleasant surprise the bra feels very true to size, and I had to exchange it for my usual cup size. The band was nice and firm on the loosest set of hooks (much firmer than Portia was, yay!), the cups are deeper and more projected than past-season Curvy Kate styles, and the fully adjustable straps are a fantastic length for me. Like some of Bravissimo’s non-padded styles, this is a shape that really works well for me: the wires sit comfortably on my body, the top of the cup doesn’t dig, and the cup is deep enough.

Both bra and brief fit really well when I first got them. I think I’ve lost a little weight in the last two months, though, and now I’m finding a I have a little extra room in the bottom and top of the cup, and I’ve needed to tighten up both the band and the straps. Even more unfortunately, the briefs are now quite big, and they actually start to slide down my hips throughout the day (once, memorably, as I was sprinting up 5th Avenue to get to an appointment. It was not cute). The Daisy Chain briefs are made of a much stretchier fabric than the mesh used for Portia, so I find they fit generously. I will size down one (or two) sizes in the future.

Comfort

Daisy Chain really, really suits my shape, so I find it a very comfortable bra to wear, especially when I first got it and the size was better for me. One thing I will point out is that (in my size, at least) the sides of the cup and the straps are set quite wide, so if you are someone who has trouble with bras cutting into your shoulders and armpits as you move throughout the day, I’d be cautious trying this style. Because the center gore is so low, some unpadded plunge shapes have to have more coverage elsewhere to provide stability and support, so sometimes you have to compromise on a fit criterion here or there.  I should also note that the bra shows pretty clearly under most of my sleeveless tops and dresses, so that’s another thing to consider if visible bra straps are an irritant to you.

Before the briefs got too big (sorrow), I found them extremely comfortable. I’ve pretty much given up on Cleo’s briefs, for example, because as cute as they are, the rise is so freaking low on my long body that they simply won’t stay up. The Daisy Chain briefs have a slightly higher rise, so while they’re not high-waisted or full-coverage by any means, they will actually sit on my hips where they’re supposed to, and they also offer a bit more belly coverage. I love them! Now I’ll just need to try the right size next time…

Overall, I heartily recommend Daisy Chain. Curvy Kate has always had such a fantastic, specific design point of view, and I think they’re really pushing their fit to get better and better with each passing season.  I get a lifted, round, supported shape from Daisy Chain, and I can wear it under lower-cut tops without it peeking out.  This is going to be a summer staple!

Daisy Chain is available in sizes 28-38 D-J, and the matching thong and brief are available in sizes 8-22 (UK, so approximately sizes 4-18 in US sizes). Curvy Kate is a British company, so the cup size progression goes like this: D, DD, E, F, FF, G, GG, H, HH, J. Daisy Chain is available at Bare Necessities, Figleaves, and Forever Yours (in black), among others.

Ever since I saw Harlow & Fox during February’s market week, the brand has become my definitive standard of luxury. Yes, Agent Provocateur is, you know, provocative, and yes there are brands like Myla and Carine Gilson and I.D. Sarrieri that make extraordinarily beautiful (and beautifully made) garments, but, for me, Harlow & Fox surpasses them.  The glamorous, grown-up style, phenomenal details, flawless execution, and, above all, the full-bust size range make me absolutely weak in the knees.  Even better, Harlow & Fox is a leader in the slowly growing luxury full-bust market, offering the finest silk and lace lingerie (all made in the U.K.) to women who until now have been sized out.

Bras are available in band sizes 30-38 and cup sizes D, DD, E, F, FF, and G, knickers in sizes XS-XL, and suspenders and robes in sizes S, M, L. The first collections are available in elegant color schemes like almond, mink, gold, and this week saw the release of “Sophia”, a gleaming lace collection in a soft, dusky mauve.

“Sophia” by Harlow & Fox

This might be my favorite range so far. For starters, the color: I have never lost my heart to mink in my life, and then I saw the collection in person and wrapped the robe around my shoulders and said “HELLO, MY RADIANT DARLING.” It’s…it’s so, so sophisticated. It’s old-school elegant and classic and romantic and would be right at home in the wardrobe of my new fashion idol The Honourable Phryne Fisher. But I’m getting ahead of myself: we all knew I’d love the kimono, because I’m a robe junkie, so let’s save it for last and talk about the four other pieces of the collection: a lace-and-silk bra, brief, high-waist knicker, and suspender belt.

First of all, I’ve seen both the Spring/Sumer and Autumn/Winter 2014 collections in person, so you can believe me when I say: these things are stitched by fairies. Leanna Williams, H&F’s founder, has summoned up some magical helpers to get this stuff made, because it is IMMACULATE. It is absolutely flawless. The silk bras are lined with silk on the inside as well as the outside, so you feel as good as you look. Seams and finished edges are smooth and nearly invisible, Leavers lace comes from the same manufacturers that made the lace for the Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding gown, and silk panels and bindings give a soft, luxurious finish. Every effort has been made to smooth, streamline, shape, and remove bulk, resulting in bras and knickers that give a fabulous fit while feeling and looking fantastic.

I love the layered tuxedo bows that trim the bra. Sophia is an interestingly sleek collection overall: I usually associate lace with frills and volume, or even girlishness, but the streamlined sheer lace bra and high-waist knickers, especially paired with the floor-length, sweeping kimono, render the wearer a tall, cool drink of water, indeed. It’s a slinkier, sexier look than I expect from lace, and I confess it’s right up my alley.

Speaking of sexy: both pairs of knickers feature entirely sheer lace backs, and the coordinating suspender belt can be worn under or over the knickers, to different effect.

I don’t fit in the size range for H&F’s bras, so I have to admire from afar, but you know what I CAN wear? This kimono. This kimono to beat all kimonos. From the minute I tried it on at the showroom it zoomed straight to the top of my all-time lingerie wishlist. The SLEEVES. The LENGTH. The positively luscious wide silk sash. The woman-of-mystery color. The feel of fine silk against your skin, and the way it ripples and shimmers when you walk. It practically begs you to go sweeping glamorously around some vast estate, classy drink in hand, a dashing paramour in your wake.

Barring any sudden lottery win, I don’t foresee this kimono coming home to me in the near future. I’m on a secretary’s budget in an expensive city; it’s just not in the cards right now. I will say this though: every single item in this collection is worth every penny.  Yes, these are luxury prices: bras are in the $200-280 price range, knickers and accessories in the $130-200 range, and robes and gowns in the $500-800 range (the site now has a nifty currency conversion for those of us in the US, which is very helpful).  But while sometimes I think luxury brands price items super-high because they can get away with it (I’m looking at you, Agent Provocateur), with Harlow & Fox the garments absolutely justify the prices. The design, the materials, the shapes, the stitching, and above all the commitment to local, ethical manufacturing make Harlow & Fox a true standout, and hopefully a game-changer in both the full-bust lingerie and luxury lingerie worlds. I cannot wait to see what comes next! (hint: Autumn/Winter: there will be TASSELS)

Curious about what it’s like to wear Harlow & Fox? Check out Miss Underpinnings’ great review of the gorgeous almond Eleanor collection.

Also, not to brag or anything, but I got to borrow several Harlow & Fox pieces for a photoshoot last month, and just as soon as I’m allowed to share the pictures THEY WILL BE EVERYWHERE, because I will be showing off like mad.

“Shortness of Time” Silk Georgette Camisole

This dessert is inspired by luxury lingerie brand Lucile‘s Spring collection, and I knew right away I wanted to create something a little more special-occasion-y than I usually make. I was really struck by the beautiful pastel silks, particularly the lovely soft pink “Shortness of Time” range, so I decided to turn for inspiration to a gift I received this Christmas: the beautiful, pastel goodness that is the Ladurée sucré cookbook.  While my oven and I are in a standoff over macarons (my oven is kind of terrible), there were many other goodies that caught my eye, in particular, the lovely, pale pink Rose Ice Cream. As much as I love rich, bold flavors like chocolate and caramel, I also really get a kick out of desserts with subtler, more unusual flavors (see: favorites Earl Grey Ice Cream with Lavender Caramel Sauce and the recent Rosemary Cookies), and today I’m happy to share my take on this elegant dessert.

I wound up creating my own recipe for the ice cream, because, while this may be blasphemous, I was pretty underwhelmed with Ladurée’s version. Low on cream and extremely high on egg yolks, the final product wasn’t as smooth and creamy as I wanted, and the rose flavor proportions were off, so that it tasted overwhelmingly perfume-y. Furthermore, Ladurée’s recipe calls for rose oil, and though I looked high and low, I could only find therapeutic-grade rose essential oil, which you shouldn’t consume. Edible rose oil seems to be more common in the UK and Europe, so if you have access to rose oil, feel free to experiment with adding a few drops to the custard just before you freeze it.

While the delicate floral scent is lovely and unusual on its own, I thought super-special lingerie deserved an extra-special presentation. Pavlovas traditionally feature meringue, pastry cream or custard, and fruit, but I’ve riffed on it here to offer a dessert that tastes light and fresh, with a hint of cardamom to spice up the flavor profile and pistachios for a slightly savory counterpoint.

For the Rose Ice Cream:

2 c. heavy cream, divided
1 c. whole milk
1/2 c. granulated sugar
pinch of salt
2 tbsp. rose syrup (available at specialist and international grocery stores, as well as Amazon)
2 tbsp. rose-water
6 egg yolks
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
2 drops red food coloring (optional)

Pour 1 c. heavy cream into a medium bowl and stir in the vanilla extract and food coloring (if using); set a mesh strainer on top and set aside. Whisk the egg yolks together in a small bowl; set aside. Whisk together the milk, sugar, pinch of salt and remaining 1 c. of cream in a medium saucepan. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat, then stir in rose-water and rose syrup. Slowly pour about half of the hot milk/cream mixture into the egg yolks in a thin stream, whisking all the while to avoid cooking the eggs. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook, stirring, over medium heat until mixture thickens, coats the back of a spoon, and steams gently (do NOT boil, and do not heat higher than around 175 degrees Fahrenheit).

Remove custard from heat and pour through the strainer into the remaining 1 c. cream. Chill custard thoroughly until very cold, and then process in an ice cream freezer according to manufacturer’s directions.

For the Cardamom Meringues:

4 egg whites, room temperature
pinch of salt
1/4 tsp. cream of tartar
3/4 c. granulated sugar
2 tsp. cornstarch
1/2 tsp. apple cider vinegar
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
1/4 tsp. ground cardamom (optional– cardamom can be quite pronounced, so feel free to leave it out or swap in a spice of your choosing)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Combine the egg whites and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer and mix on medium-low speed with a whisk attachment until frothy. Add the cream of tartar and mix on medium speed until soft peaks form. Gradually add the granulated sugar and continue to beat on medium-high speed until mixture is white, glossy, and thick, with the texture of marshmallow creme, about five minutes. Beat in the cornstarch, apple cider vinegar, vanilla extract, and cardamom.

Divide the meringue into six evenly-sized and evenly-spaced dollops on the prepared baking sheet (alternately, you can transfer the mixture to a pastry bag and pipe neat swirls, as I did). Use a spoon to create “hollows” in the center (for your ice cream to sit in). Place the baking sheet in the oven and immediately lower the oven temperature to 250 degrees Fahrenheit. Bake for about 50 minutes until the outside is crisp and set but the interior is still soft.  Cool at room temperature on a wire rack.

Meringues do not keep terribly well, but you can make them the day before serving as long as your store them in an air-tight container at room temperature.

For the Candied Pistachios:

1 c. raw pistachios
1 tbsp. corn syrup
2 tbsp. granulated sugar
1/4 tsp. salt

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a small baking sheet with aluminum foil.

In a small bowl, stir together the pistachios and corn syrup. Stir the sugar and salt together and add to the pistachios, tossing to coat. Immediately (so the sugar doesn’t dissolve) spread the pistachios on the prepared baking sheet and bake in preheated oven for 8 minutes. Cool completely at room temperature.

To serve, top each meringue with a scoop or two of rose ice cream. Scatter candied pistachios over the top. Each bite will have a little bit of luscious rose ice cream, crispy-yet-also-gooey-and-marshmallow-y meringue, and crunchy salty-sweet pistachios, and each bite will be divine. Enjoy!

Today’s lingerie pairing comes to us from London, and in fact it comes all the way from 1890, the year Lucile was founded by Lady Duff Gordon. The brand has enormously rich history (it was even name-checked on Downton Abbey), and the modern-day company has become famous for its luxurious, sensual, and romantic silk and lace lingerie, all handmade in the UK. The Spring/Summer collections feature absolutely dreamy silk and lace ensembles in sweet, fresh shades like lavender, pink, and robin’s egg blue, as well as a decadent red and gold range.

“Shortness of Time” Balcony Bra and Back-Tie Knicker

I really loved the pale pink “Shortness of Time” collection, featuring a silk boudoir bra, lace balcony bra, gloriously full and twirly silk georgette camisole, and beautiful silk and lace knickers. The silk boudoir bra in particular looks so, so fresh and light (and it would look so lovely worn with the brand’s Indiscretions Gown (vive la froofy robe!)).

“Shortness of Time” Silk Boudoir Bra and Side-Tie Knicker

I know I’ve been on a luxury kick lately, and I promise I’ll return down from the clouds of opulence with lingerie for us mere mortals soon, but the collection just felt too lovely not to share.  So if you find yourself enjoying a heavenly bite of fancy-pants pavlova, and you imagine wearing dreamy pink lingerie while doing so … well, I clearly won’t blame you one bit.

Happy Memorial Day, American readers! Summer is definitely on its way, and with the temperatures climbing in NYC I thought it would be fun to share some of my favorite full-bust swim collections from this season.  With picks ranging from bikinis to full swimsuits to athletic wear, I hope you see something you love! All of these suits are in UK sizes, so the cup size progression goes B, C, D, DD, E, F, FF, G, GG, H, HH, J, JJ, K.  All of these swimsuits are available up to at least a UK G-cup, and many go higher.

[Note: A lot of the pictures link to Figleaves, because they're currently running a Memorial Day sale in the US: the code "25OFF" gets you 25% off all full-price styles, and it ends tonight! I couldn't include all my favorites, so be sure to check out the full Midnight Grace, Sophina, and Pour Moi? ranges for cute suits at great prices]

I need to start by talking about the one that got away:

Jecca by Cleo

“Jecca” Longline Bikini and High-Waist Brief by Cleo (28-38 D-H (UK), XS-XXL). Padded bandeau bikini (28-38 D-G (UK)) and gathered swim brief also available.

I love this. I straight-up love it. The colors, the print, the shape– it’s awesome, and I KNEW this one was going to sell out. I knew it. I know that every year some swim collections are sold out by Memorial Day, and that when I start looking for a new swimsuit (usually around the Fourth of July) my pickings are slim, but I just didn’t have the disposable income lined up in time to purchase it in my size. Not only was it really hard to find in stores (thanks to late deliveries from Panache), once it did show up it sold out almost immediately. There are a few smaller cup sizes left in stock around the internet, so if you’re in the D-E range, you may still have some luck tracking one down.

Sundaes by the Seaside by Letters from Evie

“Sundaes by the Seaside” by Letters from Evie, exclusively at Bravissimo (30-32 DD-G, 34-40 D-G (UK))

Sheesh, this is adorable. I really wanted this post to include lots of G+ options, but I love this suit so much I had to include it despite the smaller size range (although it does go up to 40 back sizes, which is nice!). It has ice cream AND polka dots on it, guys; it is SO in my wheelhouse.

Speaking of polka dots, brace yourself for an avalanche of them:

“Sienna” and “Sicily” by Bravissimo

“Sienna” Tankini (30 E-J, 32-36 DD-J, 38 DD-HH (UK)) and “Sicily” Bikini (30-38 DD-K (UK)) by Bravissimo. Coordinating briefs available in sizes XS-XL.

Bravissimo has some tremendously cute options in ever-popular pin-up shapes. The Sienna and Sicily ranges are designed to coordinate, with two tankini tops and a bikini with a whopping four different matching briefs, so you can mix-and-match to find your favorite shapes. In sizes ranging up to 38K (the Sicily bikini and tankini), these styles offer some of the best size ranges out there this summer.

“Ahoy” by Pour Moi?

“Ahoy” Spotty Halter Bikini Top by Pour Moi? (32-38 D-G (UK))

“Ahoy” High-Waisted Control Brief by Pour Moi? (Sizes 8-18 (UK))

While Pour Moi? doesn’t offer the same great size range as Bravissimo, they do offer much more budget-friendly prices, and this unabashedly retro style, with ruffled halter and matching high-waist brief, is stupidly cute.

PinUp Bikini by Midnight Grace

PinUp Bikini and High-Waist Brief by Midnight Grace (30-38 D-G (UK) and 8-18 (UK))

I know, it’s another one that stops at a G-cup, but look how cute! It’s green! I love green! There’s also a choice of a halter-style bikini top, if you prefer a little more support, as well as some other shapes (bikini, tankini, etc.) in other colors. That adorable swim brief is selling out quickly, so if you want one hop to it!

Los Angeles by Miss Mandalay

“Los Angeles” bikini in Magenta by Miss Mandalay (30-38 D-GG (UK)) and deep bikini brief (XS-XL)

While lots of full-bust women love retro or pin-up styles, they’re not for everyone, and sometimes you just want a change of pace. Enter Miss Mandalay with her fabulous, sleek, and very sexy D+ bikinis. I personally don’t love black swimwear, as it throws my pale skin into sharp relief and makes me look blindingly white in the sun, so this yummy color is right up my alley!  I also love the hot cutouts at the hips on the brief.

“Vegas Baby” by Miss Mandalay

“Vegas Baby” Bikini and Tie-Side Bikini Brief by Miss Mandalay. 30-38 D-GG (UK) and XS-XL.

Y’all know I’m not really an animal print person, but I’m aware that I am in the minority, so this sassy beauty is for you, because I want you to have nice things.

“Birds of Paradise” by Curvy Kate

“Birds of Paradise” Tankini by Curvy Kate (28-38 D-K (UK)) and Mini Brief (8-20 (UK))

It can be frustratingly difficult to find cute swim options that offer a little more coverage in G+ sizes. They’re harder to construct, and some of the big players (Panache and Eveden, primarily) tend to stick to bikinis for G+ sizes, or they’ll offer one solid black G+ swimsuit. Fortunately, Curvy Kate comes to the rescue with tankinis up to a K-cup that coordinate with the rest of the bright and colorful collections, like this lovely hummingbird print. The range also includes two bikini shapes and a skirted swim brief, so you can build the suit you like best.

“Santorini” by Bravissimo

“Santorini” Swimsuit (30 E-J, 32-38 DD-K (UK)) by Bravissimo

For another fuller-coverage style up to a K-cup, check out this suit by Bravissimo in a popular navy blue shade with colorblock detail at the legline.

“Bon Bon” Bikini (Bravissimo exclusive) and “Betsey Yellow” Bandeau Bikini by Hoola

“Bon Bon” Bikini and Side-Tie Brief by Hoola (28 DD-GG, 30-36 D-GG, 38 D-G (UK), XS-XL) (Bravissimo exclusive)

“Betsey” Yellow Bandeau Bikini and Side Ruche Pant by Hoola (30-36 D-G (UK), XS-XL)

I hadn’t heard of Hoola before I spotted this candy-striped bikini on Bravissimo, but seriously, you need to click over and look at the rest of these cute D-GG swimsuits. There are some particularly good deals in the sale section, and Hoola offers free worldwide shipping on orders over £50.

Finally, for those of you who are athletic swimmers, there are some great full-bust sports swimsuits available from some of the major full-bust brands. Panache wisely created a swim version of their awesome Sports bra, as did Freya with their Active range, and Figleaves and Speedo both offer full-bust athletic swimsuits, with Speedo’s going up to a J-cup!

Panache Sports Swimsuit (28 DD-H, 30-38 D-H, 40 D-GG (UK))

“Premier Ultimate Gold” Sports Swimsuit by Speedo (30-38 E-J (UK))

“Active Swim” Underwired Swimsuit by Freya (30-38 D-H (UK))

“Aqua” Underwired Swimsuit by Figleaves Active (34-38 B-H (UK))

Happy swimming! I hope to run another post soon with options for even more sizes, so if you don’t see something in your size but you want to, please let me know!

I’ve talked a lot before about what to look for in a brand-new bra, and how to take care of your bras once you have them. A recent closet clean-out (and some recent weight loss) made me realize that I’d never actually talked about how to know when it’s time to say good-bye to a bra. As lovely as they are, and as wonderful as the construction and materials modern brands use may be, bras aren’t immortal, and there will probably come a time when you have to step back and say “You know what, bra? We had a good run.”

1.  That bra is TIRED.

This is probably the number one reason I ever get rid of a bra. Bras, particularly full-bust ones, are designed to have some longevity: Lycra, adjustable straps, sturdy wires, deep bands, and several columns of hooks and eyes all work together to fight stretch and distortion that come with wear. Still, no matter how carefully we fit, care for, and store our bras, they’re not immortal. The band will eventually stretch past the point where it offers support, the wires warp and poke into underarms, and the cups stretch out of shape. When you notice that you have to hook your bra on the tightest set of hooks and yet still adjust it throughout the day, your bra’s molded cups are creased and weakened, the elastic and mesh are starting to get threadbare and worn out, or your once-comfiest bra now pokes and chafes, that bra has probably reached the end of its lifespan.

That hot pink sports bra back there? It is on its last legs. I put my sports bras through heavy workouts every week, and that one is nearing the end of its days (Hi, Gus).

To some extent, whether or not a bra is “too-tired” will vary from person to person, depending on your size, body type, age, and comfort preferences. But I can tell you this for sure: the bra you’ve had for four years that you wear every week and toss in the dryer? That bra is dead. Good-bye, bra.

Remember: friends don’t let friends put their underwear in the dryer.

2.  Change of size.

My size has fluctuated a lot throughout my 20s, so I’ve seen bras get both too small and too big with some frequency.  This can sometimes be an emotionally fraught reason to have to say good-bye to a bra.  Sometimes our weight changes for unexplained reasons, or because of illness, medical side effects, or other adverse physical condition, and discovering that our bras no longer fit can feel like an insult on top of injury.  Even if our weight changes as result of intentional diet and/or lifestyle changes, or even in the case of natural physiological changes (like puberty, pregnancy, or menopause), it can still be irritating to discover that, whoops, there are no more bras that fit, and now we have to buy more, with all of that extra disposable income we have JUST LYING AROUND, SO THANKS, BOOBS.

In general, I always feel like if you’re gonna have a bra that’s not a perfect fit, then it’s better to have one that’s a little too big in the cups instead of a little too small.  A too-small band can in some cases be fixed with an extender, but too-small cups can dig in and create bulges, and too-small wires will sit on top of breast tissue and prevent the center gore from tacking.  Conversely, sometimes a bra will feel slightly too big in the cups, but as long as you’re still getting a shape and the support you like, then carry on.  There is, however, a point where slightly big becomes just plain too big: the band is too large to keep your breasts lifted, the cups will gape or wrinkle, the gore might begin to tack painfully, or the wires will suddenly seem too deep and wide, and they begin to dig or poke into your ribcage or underarm.

As an example, I wore my lovely, adored Cherry Fling set by Bravissimo to work last week, and by the time I got home I had to admit to myself that it was time to pack it away in case my size changes again. The band has held up beautifully through heavy wear– I still get great support when it’s fastened on the loosest hooks, but the cups are just too big now: the center gore is digging into my sternum, I have too much space in the top and bottom of the cup, and the wires are beginning to spread too wide at the sides. Oh adorable cherry bra, I wish we’d had more time together, or at least that I’d snagged a smaller size when it was available.

Now, while there’s no need to let a bra that doesn’t fit take up space in your drawer (I recommend keeping your lingerie drawer a happy place, stocked with bras you can pull out and wear right this minute), I personally like to hang on to any bras that are still in really good shape. I know my size fluctuates, so it makes for sense for me to hang on to a range of sizes, so that I don’t have to buy new bras every time I need a different size. Once I settle into a new size range I do a lingerie drawer clear out and move any bras that don’t fit to a storage box under my bed, while seeing if any bras I’d set aside previously happen to fit again. This weekend I made the happy discovery that a bra I’d sent packing around a year and a half ago for being too small fits again, and it feels like I have brand new undies.  I also keep my stash in case a friend asks me to do a fitting while we’re hanging out at my apartment, and I’ve sent many in-good-shape-but-too-small-for-me bras off to new and happy homes!

3.  You realize the shape isn’t a match made in heaven.

This one can be especially annoying, especially if you’re new to well-fitting bras, or you’re still experimenting to figure out your size range and what styles you like best. Sometimes a bra feels amazing for the first two hours and then you want to rip it off your body.  It can really take a few wears to discover how you feel about a particular shape and construction, and by then, of course, you usually can’t return it if you decide it’s not for you. Now, granted, some bras are like shoes, and they require a more involved break-in period.  I often find that my Panache bras take about two wears and a wash before they start to feel like all-day bras. But sometimes no matter how much you wear it, no matter how many adjustments you make, and no matter that it’s technically the “right” size, the bra just isn’t for you.

I have tried more padded demi and balconette bras than I can count, at every size I’ve ever worn, and I have never yet found one that I actively enjoy wearing. I tried my Tutti Rouge Betty bra on the other day after several months of leaving it in the drawer, and I wore it for about 20 minutes before gratefully switching to something else.  Padded bras are just not my thing: I feel more supported and I get a shape and appearance I prefer in non-padded bras.  I’d much rather clear the padded bras out of my drawer to make way for bras I actively enjoy wearing.

Bottom line: If your bra isn’t making you happy, it shouldn’t be taking up space in your lingerie drawer. If it doesn’t make you feel good, either because the fit is bad or it’s uncomfortable or it just isn’t “you”, it’s probably time to break up.

So what do I do with my dead/no-good bra?

In the case of dead bras, unfortunately the best thing to do is the throw them out. Bras with shot elastic, warped wires, mangled hooks and eyes, crushed and crumpled molded cups, and faded, soiled, or stained materials are not bras that should be donated. If you don’t want to wear it because it’s falling apart, why would anyone else?  The exception to this is that sometimes your local lingerie boutique may offer bra recycling programs, in which case by all means save up your dead bras to take with you on a shopping trip.

If , however, you want to get rid of a gently-used bra because your size or needs have changed or you just don’t like wearing it, absolutely consider donating it so someone else can benefit! Many lingerie boutiques like Journelle or Bravissimo offer donation options: Bravissimo has donation bins available in-store year-round, and in New York City, Journelle and Sugar Cookies both offer Spring-cleaning bra donation drives. Not sure if there’s a donation center near you? Consider donating your bra to SOL, a lingerie store in Denver that partners with The Gathering Place to offer well-fitting bras to homeless women in the community. They especially need cup sizes over a DD and band sizes of 38 and up, so if you have some bras in that range going spare, do considering donating!

A quick housekeeping note:

Those of you who have business or hobby pages of your own are probably already painfully aware of this, but Facebook has drastically revamped the way their algorithms handle Pages (like the Sweet Nothings page), to the extent that sometimes only 4 or 5% of those who “Like” Sweet Nothings actually see the content we’re posting! Facebook wants to push more and more business users to pay in order to get their content out, which I understand (hey, we all have to make money), but I do hate how much it affects the “community” feel we used to have. If you want to see posts, pictures, and updates from Sweet Nothings in your newsfeed/timeline/whatever we’re calling it these days, hover over the “Like” button with your cursor, and select “Get Notifications” and/or make sure that “Following” has a checkmark next to it, and you’ll be able to see all the lingerie, blog posts, recipes, and cat pictures your heart could ever desire.

Presented mostly without comment, because when something is this cute, in this fabulous a color, with this wonderful a size range, there’s nothing much more I can add. Pass me a plane ticket, some sunscreen, and a fruity-umbrella drink, because I want to take this baby on vacation.

“Monaco” Bikini Top (£34.00) and Ruched Brief (£22.00) by Bravissimo. Sizes 30-38 D-K (UK) and XS-XL.

Also P.S. there’s a matching brief with a ruffle on it. That felt important to share.

Guys, in case I haven’t made it clear over the last few posts, I STRONGLY FEEL that you should check out the Australian Broadcasting Corporation’s Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries, starring Essie Davis as the Honourable Phryne (pronounced Fry-nee) Fisher (season 1 is streaming on Netflix, season 3 was just announced, and season 2 is available exclusively on Acorn TV, which makes me cranky because the last thing I need is to sign up for yet another video streaming service, and yet I can feel that I might cave any day now, because I want my Miss Fisher).  It is pure catnip to lovers of mysteries, romantical shenanigans, and olden-time eye candy.

The Honourable Phryne Fisher, who of course keeps daggers in her stockings.

They are frothy and flapper-y and charmingly cast and I promise the first two or three episodes will have you digging through your liquor cabinet searching for a cocktail to swill while you watch. Miss Phryne Fisher is a sexually liberated feminist who can handle her booze, her boys, and her bad guys with equal aplomb. She is slinky and sassy and compassionate and fierce and impeccably coiffed and I love her.

“Yes, I am fabulous. Observe my feathers.”

I also love her wardrobe.

Phryne in one of her many baller kimonos. Swoon.

Julia Lambert (“Julia Lambert” is my twin sister’s blog alias, for those of you who are newbies) and I have both begun reevaluating our lingerie drawers with the single criterion “What Would Miss Fisher Wear?”, and in light of that I thought it would be fun to share some of my picks for How to Build Miss Fisher’s Lingerie Wardrobe. Let’s all pretend we’re wildly wealthy aristocrats in Australia in the 1920s with a yen for social justice and a predilection for awesomeness, shall we?

Left to right: Mary Green “Nouveau Retro” Teddy, Hips and Curves Lace Trim Satin Plus Size Teddy, Kiss Me Deadly Peach Silk “Ida” Bralet and “Peachy Keen” Longline Girdle

The 20th century was a period of immense change in the fashion world in general, and women’s lingerie was no exception. Lingerie was hugely affected by the other Big Deal Things that were going on in the world at the time, like, you know, suffrage, world war, industrialism, and general social and political upheaval. Women’s clothes grew shorter and slinkier, so all-in-one garments like cami-knickers and “step-ins” became popular for their comfort and practicality, allowing the lighter, closer-fitting garments to hug the body. Instead of waist-nipping corsets, many women chose to wear longer, slimming girdles, corselettes, and other pieces of shapewear that helped them achieve the long, straight silhouette of the 1920s. Shorter skirts meant shorter slips and visible stockings, and pale pink and blush were some of the most popular colors. This distinctly retro color palette has made a resurgence lately, so you have plenty of options to begin building your flapper’s lingerie wardrobe.

Clockwise from top left: Dollhouse Bettie “Juliet” Black Silk Seamed Flapper Stockings, Angela Friedman “Charlize” Slip, Mimi Holliday “Knickerbocker Glory” Camisole and Shorties, Hips and Curves Satin Chemise and Robe Set, Dottie’s Delights Gold Lace Bra and Girdle Skirt, Mimi Holliday “Bisou Bisou” Teddy, Kiss Me Deadly sheer “Elle” Knickers and “Van Doren” Bralet

Phryne is, to quote Singing in the Rain, “so refined I think I might kill myself”, and as a woman dressing in the height of sophistication, she would DEFINITELY have some slinky black pieces in her lingerie drawer. These seamed silk stockings, fluttering tap pants, silky teddies, slips and camisoles, and a stunning girdle skirt would make any of her lovers weak in the knees.

Clockwise from top left: Harlow & Fox “Eleanor” collection, Dottie’s Delights “Century Girl” Slip, Harlow & Fox “Eleanor” collection, Mimi Holliday “Banoffee Pie” camisole and shorties, Dollhouse Bettie “Juliet” Silk Flapper Stockings.

But she’s not in full seduction mode all the time. This woman takes her detective work seriously (“I don’t allow myself to be lustfully compromised during my murder investigations”), and she dresses impeccably for every social engagement, from cocktails and dancing to a ladylike garden party. These beautiful ivory styles make a lovely counterpoint to black evening wear.

Clockwise from top left: Carine Gilson “Sonia” Short Kimono, Trashy Diva Flapper Robe, Layneau Collection “Contessa” Robe, Carine Gilson “Sakura” Long Kimono, Jenny Packham Long Satin Robe

Phryne busts out an awesome robe in the very first episode, while seducing a Russian ballet dancer, and that’s how I knew we were soulmates. I could see her wearing any of these stunning robes, particularly the velvet Layneau “Contessa” robe, which reminds me of one of her many fur-trimmed evening coats.

I see you, you saucy minx.

Don’t forget accessories!

I have not seen this episode yet, and so seeing this picture pop up on the internet caused me actual pain because I’m so stoked to watch it, NETFLIX. Season 2. Get on it.

While I can’t in good conscience recommend keeping a dagger in your stockings (we’re not all loaded, Phryne– how many pairs of silk stockings do you accidentally stab?), Dollhouse Bettie offers a silk garter flask that cracks me up, and also I want one.  Throw in a feather boa and some dancing shoes, and you’re all set!

Clockwise from top left: Dollhouse Bettie fan, garter flask, and boa, Very Fine ballroom shoes, Jacques Levine Kraze silk marabou mules

There were far, far too many wonderful options out there for me to include them all in the post. If you’re looking for more, be sure to check out Dollhouse Bettie, Dottie’s Delights, Kiss Me Deadly, Mimi Holliday, and What Katie Did for more retro goodness. From slips to camiknickers to tap pants to seamed stockings, each retailer and brand offers a huge range of vintage-style (and modern!) lingerie pieces in a variety of shapes and styles.

Oh you two. Get a room.

Go catch bad guys and drive the local detective inspector wild.

Miss Fisher and Detective Inspector Jack Robinson. I want Phryne to have all the lovers she wants, but I am firmly Team Jack, in my heart.

Well, the East Coast is heading surely into summer after a long winter and a (thankfully) long spring, and as someone who doesn’t sleep well in the heat, I’m looking for pajamas and loungewear that are both cute and cool.  I can’t really sleep with anything long on my legs anyway, so summer pajamas are right up my alley: camisoles, boyshorts, babydolls, and short-sleeved pajamas in soft, breathable fabrics and relaxed silhouettes offer comfortable relief from the heat.  Here are some of my favorite styles I’ve spotted in stores recently– anything catch your eye?

“Intrigue” Bird Print Nightie by Hotmilk (A-D and DD-G versions available).

Somewhere Julia Lambert is sniggering “put a bird on it, Sweets”, and I KNOW, I have lots of bird stuff in my apartment/lingerie drawer, but whatever. This is light and pretty, and it comes in two versions to accommodate mothers who wear both core and full-bust sizes.

“Zen Floral” Plus-Size Chemise by Natori

Sometimes I look at satin/silk/lace summer loungewear and think “you are so pretty, and you would make me so sweaty”. Even though this chemise features lace, the top is stretch lace and the skirt is soft knit, which I find much more comfortable in warm weather. It’s a pretty plus-size option that reminds me of …

“Pandora” D-G Stretch Lace Chemise by Figleaves

… this lovely full-bust stretch lace chemise from Figleaves. I’ve never tried any of their loungewear, but I’d be really curious to see what the support is like, because the styles are very alluring and feminine.  Speaking of supportive nightwear for full-bust sizes…

Cami Top in Lagoon by Bravissimo (D-H cup sizes)

Bravissimo has a really great range of full-bust nightwear, including some options that are available up to J-cup sizes.  While not as lacy or romantic as Figleaves’ offerings, the range of simple, colorful camis, night dresses, and tank tops will keep you feeling cool and supported without an underwire.

Night dress in Bramble by Bravissimo (D-J cup sizes)

Shorts and camis not your thing? I’d totally wear this night dress as loungewear to goof around the apartment on a hot summer weekend.  Best of all, it’s available up to a 38J, offering support to a wide range of full-bust sizes.

Come Out & Play Babydoll in Bamboo/Dawn by Between the Sheets

I adore my Venus in Play babydoll from Between the Sheets (review here), and I’ve worn it so much it’s nearly on its last legs.  With a flattering, flexible fit for small-bust and full-bust sizes alike, this snuggly babydoll is light, soft, and breezy: perfect for a hot Summer night.

“Lotus Blossom” Babydoll by Dollhouse Bettie

One of my favorite new-to-me brands at February’s Curve trade show was Dollhouse Bettie. Their in-house designs are simultaneously contemporary and retro-inspired, and they inspire a playful creativity that encourages the wearer to mix and match pieces to suit her personality. The Lotus Blossom collections feature lots of gorgeous pieces (particularly for those who wear petite sizes (and check out these cool snag-proof stockings!)), but I was totally charmed by this babydoll.  In stretch lace and sheer mesh, this strapless babydoll mixes sophistication and an effortless, almost beachy sense of relaxation.  The Azure colorway is a winner too!

“Bohemian Reverie” Cami and Shorts by Eberjey (image via Anthropologie)

This color will never not remind me of Pistachio Ice Cream.  Also this whole set is adorable, I love the sweet lace trim, and Eberjey is the master of comfy, cute jammies.

“Domino Dots” Plus Size Pajamas by Oscar de la Renta

Navy blue! Polka dots! Ruffles! Sold.

Pajamas (DD-H) version in grey by Hotmilk

Sometimes simple is super. This classic cami-and-pajama-pant set offers wire-free support up to an H-cup for new mothers and mothers-to-be. The Hotmilk website suggests packing this set in your hospital bag, and I can’t help but agree.

“Venice” Night Dress by Only Hearts

I just really love a good, classic night dress. This one, made in New York City by Only Hearts, is beautiful. The soft knit and relaxed silhouette offer comfort, and pretty lace trim adds a little romance.

Lace Trim Camisole and Boyshort by Hips and Curves

This right here? My favorite style of pajamas. Available up to a size 5X in multiple colors (and currently on sale for $19.95!), this set would make a great lingerie-drawer staple.

“Constanza Eyelet” Slip by Eloise

Finally, this one just makes me want to go on vacation. Can’t you see it? Relaxing in a beach house, strolling in the waves before breakfast, kicking back to snooze in a hammock with a glass of iced tea…

If you need me, I’ll be at my desk. Daydreaming.

Last February I decided to special-order some of my favorite upcoming Spring/Summer styles through A Sophisticated Pair. Erica offers a very generous special order/return policy, and while I often wait for certain pieces to go on sale (or for me to impulse purchase them during a Netflix-induced internet spiral), I knew I wanted to get a jump on one or two styles as soon as they became available, and I wanted to support an independent boutique while doing so. The first set on my list was Elomi’s “Megan” collection, including a lovely non-padded longline bra and coordinating brief. [Note: I purchased this set under my real name with my own money. All thoughts and opinions are my own.]

Appearance

The longline version of Megan features an opaque laminate fabric in a dark purple/navy blue color with a contrasting pink and white ditsy floral print. The longline band features a subtle colorblock effect with the printed center panel contrasting with dark navy powermesh at the sides and back. The band includes built-in flexible boning below the center of each cup, under the arms, and near the center back, to help keep the band lying straight and flush against the ribcage without wrinkling or curling up. The straps are fully adjustable and are set fairly close together in the back, which ensures they don’t slip off the shoulders. The band closes with two columns of five rows of hooks and eyes.

The cups are four-part cups, with a vertical seam in the bottom of the cup, a horizontal seam bisecting the cup, and a side panel connected to the strap, for forward projection.  The bra features a slightly lower center gore, and while I wouldn’t say it’s a true plunge, it’s definitely a lower profile than Elomi’s full cup bras. The cups are trimmed with coordinating pink embroidered mesh, with a pink bow at the center gore, at each strap, and at the center front of the briefs.

So this print: when I saw it at last August’s Curve, I thought “well, it’s better than the terrible denim weirdness that was last year’s version”. It’s very sweet, very cheerful, and very pretty. I think the colors will be flattering on a range of skin tones, and it feels very bright and summery whenever I wear it.

However.

I have been waiting impatiently for the magical day when a non-padded G+ longline bra would be mine, and I may have let my hopes get too high. I’ve wanted a longline bra since the trend first picked up steam 3-4 years ago. Freya, Panache, Curvy Kate, and Parfait all make (or have made) lovely D+ longline bras with padded or molded cups (see Julia Lambert’s review of Parfait’s Danielle), but I strongly prefer unpadded bras. Claudette has since introduced a cute longline version of Dessous, but they don’t make my size. My dream version, if anyone cares to know, is a sheer mesh longline bra with boning in the band and matching sheer high-waist suspender briefs, maybe with contrast seaming or opaque piping, or a set that’s unabashedly retro in pale pink silk with matching tap pants, like one Miss Phryne Fisher might wear. In other words, I want something really, really sexy or special, without sacrificing the fit and comfort I get from nonpadded bras.

Megan, bless its darling little heart, is not really, really sexy or special. It’s cute as a damn button though, so I’ll allow it. I feel like longline bras in fuller cup sizes can sometimes read as a Whole Lotta Bra, which can be a turn-off to some customers, and designing a set to be a showpiece or a special occasion set (like Curvy Kate have done with the black version of Carmen for A/W 14) can help make the style extra enticing, instead of intimidating. This purple-and-pink ditsy floral print can read as simultaneously little girlish or as mumsy (not that there’s anything wrong with youth or motherhood!), but this is a market demographic that, when not  dominated by beige, black, and white, is a little over-saturated with girly and mumsy. I’d love to see some pieces that might appeal to a full-figure woman looking for more fashion-forward, directional lingerie.

Fit

I’ve enjoyed wearing Elomi over the last year because the brand’s style has gotten both cuter and more sophisticated. They offer lots of different shapes, and I’m freed from the tyranny of the molded/padded bra. That being said, Elomi isn’t a perfect match for my body, and Megan is no exception.

I tried on last summer’s longline “Roxy” style once at a lingerie boutique in Virginia, and based solely on memory, Megan’s band feels a bit looser and less constricting. It’s firmer towards the top and more forgiving towards the bottom, where some full-figure customers’ waistlines widen. In fact, I sometimes hook the bottom three hooks on the firmest column and the top two on the loosest, in order to get the band to hug my ribcage more firmly. I’m not complaining about a more relaxed band: one of the issues I wondered about when it comes to longline bras in full-figure sizes was how flexible the fit would be in terms of accommodating different shapes (as many of us carry our weight in different places), and I think Megan will be flattering on a range of body shapes.

The cups feel true-to-size for Elomi, although, as is often the case, they’re the primary source of fit shenanigans for me. The shape is designed for a body that’s different from mine: the wires feel wide, and the cups have more room in the sides and less room at the center front. Elomi bras are great for women who feel like they have a lot of breast tissue under their arms, like their breasts are wide-set, or like the underwires in other bras sit on the breast tissue and dig. My breasts are high on my chest wall with a lot of forward projection, so sometimes it feels like Elomi bras sort of pull my breasts out to the sides of my body. Megan fit fairly well when I bought it, with occasional digging in along the neckline where my breasts are fuller, but now that I’ve lost some weight I really notice the extra space at the sides and in the bottom of the cup.

For the briefs, I chose what I think of as my “Freya” size (one size down from what I wear in other brands), and I’m glad I did, as I found Megan’s briefs fit very comfortably in the smaller size.  My hips and rear are smaller in proportion to my bust, so if you have a curvier lower half you might be comfortable in your usual size.

Comfort

So, why did I buy a longline bra from a brand that isn’t the best shape for me, when the print and color didn’t really set my world on fire?

So help me, I just really wanted one. I really, really, REALLY wanted a longline bra. The deeper bands distribute the pressure of supporting heavy breasts more evenly without digging in at the top or bottom edges, plus they offer extra smoothing to your back and sides, and some souls more daring than I even wear them as crop tops or as midriff-baring base layers. I totally wear Megan around my apartment when I’m cooking (hi neighbors) or cleaning or just lounging with the cats, and it’s very handy for some sleeveless tops, because the straps are set closer together in the back. It’s not quite right for racerback styles, or for tops with wide-set straps, but I’ve definitely found a home for it in my wardrobe.

The briefs are a really comfortable cut for me: low enough that they don’t dig in to my waistline or hips, high enough that they don’t curl up and roll down under my belly. I love the way Elomi cuts their knickers, so two thumbs up from me!

Overall, and in spite of some shape incompatibility, I’m really pleased with this set. I hope Elomi keeps the longline style in their Spring/Summer collections– I’d love to see them experiment with some more unusual prints or styles. I think a solid colorblocked version, or one that featured sheer mesh or lace, could be a deeply dramatic, show-stopping piece. What do you think?

“Megan” Longline Bra is available in sizes 34-40 E-H (UK cup sizes, so approximately F-K in US cup sizes). Coordinating brief available in sizes M-4XL, and coordinating banded bra available in sizes 36-42 E-JJ, 44 E-G.

*****

Photography: Lydia Hudgens

Lingerie: Elomi Lingerie via A Sophisticated Pair (also currently on sale at Nordstrom); Earrings: Anthropologie (old); Ring: personal; Lips: Stila “Sonya”; Nails: Dior “Violet Graphique”

A very happy and festive 4th of July, American readers! Everyone else: hey, it’s still Friday, right? Win!

In case you’re looking for a last-minute sweet treat for your picnic or cookout (except this stupid Hurricane Arthur is really throwing off our festive groove, no?), here are the blondies that I have probably made more times in my life than any other dessert. They’ve accompanied me to birthday parties, holiday parties, high school theater rehearsals, dances, sleepovers, etc. etc., and I’ve probably made them more times than I can count. This is a formative dessert in the history of my baking career, is what I’m trying to say. Mom invented them while trying to use up some pantry leftovers, and we’ve never looked back, because why mess with perfection?

Chocolate Chip-Butterscotch-Toffee-Pecan Blondies

1 c. (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 c. dark brown sugar, packed
1/2 c. granulated sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 tsp. vanilla extract
2 1/4 c. all-pupose flour
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking soda
2/3 c. semi-sweet chocolate chips
2/3 c. butterscotch chips
2/3 c. toffee bits or crushed Heath bars
1 c. raw pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.  Grease a 9 x 13″ Pyrex baking pan.

Combine butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 4-5 minutes.  Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition, followed by the vanilla extract.

Sift together the dry ingredients. With the mixer running on low speed, gradually add the dry ingredients until fully combined, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula as needed.  Beat on medium speed for 1 minute.  Stir in the chocolate chips, butterscotch chips, toffee bits, and pecans until evenly mixed.

Spread the mixture in a prepared pan, smoothing the top. Bake in preheated oven for about 30-35 minutes until the top is golden and a tester inserted in the center of the pan comes out clean.  Allow to cool at room temperature for at least 1 hour before slicing and serving.

Makes around 40 blondies.

*****

For our lingerie pairing, I decided to branch out to swimwear, because in theory it would be lovely if we were all spending a festive 4th of July keeping cool by the pool, but, alas: hurricane.

I love these polka dotted swimsuits from Esther Williams (via Modcloth).  The size range is fantastic: styles are available from size 4 to 26, and y’all know I can’t resist a polka dot, especially in swimwear. Add in red, one of my absolute favorite colors, and one that’s totally on-point for July 4th? Perfection, just like Mom’s blondies.