I’ve so enjoyed sharing some of my favorite bloggers’ photos this week, but what was it like when I finally saw MY photos?

Model/Makeup/Hair: Sweets, Sweet Nothings. Photographer: Caryn Leigh Photography. Lingerie: Bravissimo, Malco Modes.  Shoes: T.U.K. Shoes.

OH MY GOD Y’ALL, I WAS NOT PREPARED.

Let’s back up for a sec.  Caryn was amazing, first of all.  She’s warm and funny and positive and creative and enthusiastic and an absolute pro.  We’ve been friends for a while, and I loved my headshots she took for my press kit a while back, so when she suggested doing some boudoir sessions I knew I’d feel confident and comfortable shooting with her.

But just because it’s comfortable and fun the day-of doesn’t mean that all of my thoughts and issues and emotions and hangups just magically went away, either.

[TW: Discussion of body image]

Here’s the thing: I find it really, really hard to look at photos of myself, and I always have.  I’ve talked about my not-so-great relationship with my body before, in reference to pole-dancing  and in reference to bikinis and in reference to ballet dancing.  Photos usually make me cringe and peek at them through my fingers, scared of what I’ll see.  When I look at the big picture of things, I feel like an asshole for even having body image issues: I’m healthy and able-bodied and my gender identity matches the gender I was assigned at birth and my body generally doesn’t attract comment or criticism as I go about my everyday life, apart from the catcalls and annoyances lots of women are subject to.  So, what, boohoo, I have big boobs and I’m carrying extra pounds?  Suck it up, Sweets.

Model/Makeup/Hair: Sweets, Sweet Nothings. Photographer: Caryn Leigh Photography. Swimsuit: Pour Moi?

Still, when I saw my photos for the first time, it was with a sick, sinking feeling in the pit of my stomach.  I didn’t see the pretty colors, or my awesome lingerie, or how well Caryn had captured the looks I’d wanted.  I saw a fold of skin where I thought there “shouldn’t” be one.  I saw arms and thighs that looked “too big” to me.  I saw cheeks that were fuller and a waist that was thicker than I thought I wanted.   I saw skin that wasn’t perfectly magically clear and hair that wasn’t as shiny and bouncy as I wanted (note: I first saw the photos before they were retouched, which I’ll talk about it in a sec).  I felt a little like my worst fears had been realized: there wasn’t enough makeup or natural light or awesome lingerie in the world that would make me look “good” or “acceptable.”

Model: Sweets, Sweet Nothings. Photographer: Caryn Leigh Photography. Lingerie: Elomi (c/o). Peignoir: Dottie’s Delights. Hold-Ups: Gaetano Cazzola.

So, first of all, there’s obviously some body dysmorphia going on there, as well as maybe some unreasonable expectations.  I acted like if I didn’t walk out of a boudoir shoot magically looking like, say, Ashley Graham, then I must look like, say, Gollum.  It was an either-or thing.  Because that’s totally reasonable.

Secondly, I should have learned this from every acting-headshot-session I’d ever had, but it is pretty much a sure thing that you will look like a goof in 50% or more of your unedited photos. This is why some photographers won’t allow you to see all of the session’s photos, and instead will curate a much smaller group of proofs for your review.  A hand will be strangely close to the camera and look disproportionately gigantic, you’ll laugh genuinely and one eye will crinkle up more than the other, you’ll discover that your pouty/sultry/sexy face does not look the way you think it looks (note: it actually looks cranky/sleepy), or everything will be absolutely perfect, except you’ll have a giant smear of lipstick on your face.  I KNOW that this is the case, and yet every time I get a bunch of proofs back I decide to be DISTRAUGHT that not every single picture is an A+.

Model/Makeup/Hair: Sweets, Sweet Nothings. Photographer: Caryn Leigh Photography. Lingerie: Fantasie, Kiss Me Deadly (c/o)

Also, there’s SUCH a big difference between seeing raw images and seeing a final, edited proof.  I will never say that retouching and Photoshop are Evil.  Obviously there are extremes, like the time Ralph Lauren made their model’s waist smaller than her head, or when perfectly lovely bodies and skin colors and faces are manipulated past the point of recognition or reality.  Those extremes are terrible and deserve all the indignation, scorn, and rejection they receive.  But just like makeup, retouching can help a photo show us what we actually “see”, rather than what the lens happened to capture.  When we see someone in real life, we don’t register every slight change in skin tone or every stray wisp of hair.  In photos, however, equal weight is given to the large details as well as the tiny, so some subtle retouching can help “correct” the image to match our real-life perception of the object.  [Also, for fuck's sake, it's a boudoir shoot, not a photo-documentary. It's about fulfilling a fantasy, and if your fantasy involves erasing the zit that decided to pop up with a vengeance the day of the shoot, then who has the right to judge you?]

Model/Makeup/Hair: Sweets, Sweet Nothings. Photographer: Caryn Leigh Photography. Lingerie: Bravissimo, Malco Modes. Shoes: T.U.K. Shoes.

So I got my photos, told Caryn they were beautiful, and vowed never to show them to anyone.  And then two weeks later I went back and looked at them again, and whether time heals all mental wounds, or my self-perception filters had re-calibrated themselves, or I’d womanned up and gotten a grip, I’m not sure, but I felt better about them.  It’s like I’d been scared that the camera was mercilessly revealing all of my “flaws” to the world, when in fact it was just like “oh, okay, that’s me in my underwear. Cool.”  I would have felt so much WORSE if someone had taken them and “corrected” them to give me a flat stomach and bigger eyes and a longer neck and erased my dimples– like, what, am I not good enough for these pictures just the way I am?  I’m only worthy of a nice picture if I look like someone else entirely? Eff that.

Model: Sweets, Sweet Nothings. Photographer: Caryn Leigh Photography. Peignoir: Dottie’s Delights. Hold-Ups: Gaetano Cazzola. Slippers: Pleaser.

Part of why I decided to share the pictures now, after a year and a half of keeping my face off the blog, is precisely BECAUSE I had some mixed feelings about them.  How can I sit here behind my computer screen and say “all bodies are beautiful”, if I couldn’t be a body-positive warrior for myself?  If I couldn’t admit that I was scared to reveal myself?  How dishonest would I be, if I hid the fact that sometimes it’s hard to practice self-love?

Model: Sweets, Sweet Nothings. Photographer: Caryn Leigh Photography. Lingerie: Parfait (c/o). Peignoir: Dottie’s Delights.

Even if my pictures had shown someone with a flat stomach and smaller boobs and large eyes and no wrinkles or dimples wherever, that particular someone would have been no more (or less) deserving of beautiful, sexy images than I am, or than any of us are.  One of my biggest struggles with my body has been working to love it no matter the number on the scale or the size on the tag.  It’s fine to want to change your body, to set goals for yourself, to embark on new routines or lifestyle choices, but if you can only say “my body will be worthy of love” instead of “my body is worthy of love right now, and will be tomorrow too”, then what kind of self-love is that?

ALSO (omg, I swear I’m almost done navel-gazing), it occurs to me that maybe looking at yourself with love takes practice.  My sister, mother, and I spent time over the summer clearing out the attic, and we found boxes of photos from when my sister and I were little all the way through college.  Photos that made me weirdly sad, they were SO CUTE and from so long ago.  Photos that made me laugh, because sometimes children are awesome (there’s this one of my sister and me “baking” around age 5 or 6, and you guys there is SO MUCH FLOUR on everything).  And then there were the photos that made my heart ache, because I remember that when I saw them shortly after they were taken, I felt ashamed of and horrified by my appearance. I look at those photos now, after years have passed, and I can’t believe I treated that girl with such unkindness, such scorn, such derision.  I can’t believe I treated that happy, healthy, smart, passionate girl like she was worthless, because she didn’t live up to self-imposed standards of impossible physical perfection.

I share all my mixed emotions about the experience not to try to scare anyone away from doing it (far from it: more pretty pictures for everyone!), but to try to come to grips with the idea that it’s okay if you don’t fall in love with your pictures right away.  There’s a narrative that any type of makeover or photoshoot will IMMEDIATELY reveal a beauty that the subject never knew was there, and that from the moment she sees her “new” self she will live happily ever after.  That might happen, sure, but if it doesn’t?  If seeing your pictures is hard, or just one small step on your journey towards self-love?  That’s okay too.  But I think from here on out I’m going to try to imagine what my future self might say to me, once time has passed and the pictures faded from her memory.  If she were to look at them again in five, or ten, or thirty years, how could she look at them with anything other than compassion and love?

*****

A huge thanks to all the lovely lingerie bloggers and photographers who shared their work this week.  In case you missed them, check out Part I, Part II, and Part III.  An especially huge thanks to Caryn, for being such a great artist and friend.

More about Caryn:

Caryn Leigh Photography Official Site
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When Parfait announced the launch of three D-K cup styles in late 2013, I couldn’t wait to try them for myself.  I really like the brand’s commitment to pretty, colorful lingerie in a wide variety of styles, all at a moderate price point.  I was curious to see how differently each of the shapes would fit (if they were different at all), so when Parfait offered me a second piece to review (after reviewing the gorgeous red “Charlotte” last year), I eagerly said “yes please!”  [Note: while Parfait generously provided this piece for review, all opinions and comments are my own.]

Photographer: Caryn Leigh Photography. Lingerie: Parfait (c/o). Peignoir: Dottie’s Delights. Hold-Ups: Gaetano Cazzola.

For my second piece I skipped right over the very lovely (but rather basic) lace “Sophia” bra and jumped straight over to the “Alexis” babydoll.  Despite still being a fairly new player in the full-bust lingerie market, Parfait continues to offer styles than many other, bigger brands shy away from, like gorgeous satiny longline bras, high-waist knickers, and sweet, sassy babydolls.  Apart from basques, I’ve never really had a super-dressy, flirty piece of lingerie, and certainly not one that could double as nightwear/loungewear.  While I usually choose black over white in my lingerie wardrobe, I decided to try a different look this time and requested the Ivory colorway (I also thought it might hide cat fur better.  Don’t judge).

Appearance

“Alexis” Babydoll by Parfait

I think Parfait really doesn’t get enough credit for how well they balance creativity with broad appeal to a wide customer base.  True, they are a mass-market brand, so you’re not going to see any zany prints or super-risky colors, but the pieces they do create tend to be both pretty and memorable.  I’m pleased but frankly astonished that there haven’t been too many knock-offs of the hugely popular “Charlotte”, the satin “Danielle” longline bra and brief set stands out in my mind as one of the prettiest full-bust lingerie sets I’ve seen since I started blogging, and I think the floral “Louisa” style for Spring/Summer 2014 is an unexpected winner.  ”Alexis” is a bit more classic and traditional than any of these styles: a fantastic boudoir piece that offers the full shape and support of an underwire bra.

The color is a very bright ivory, almost white, with a full, floating mesh skirt.  The skirt portion is about 18 inches/46 centimeters long, coming down to about two inches below my hips.  The cups are made of sheer mesh and lace with a single seam (more later) and foam interior side slings.  The satiny straps are an inch wide and fully adjustable, and the back closes with three columns of four rows of hooks and eyes.  The satin and mesh band features flexible boning under the arms for extra stability.  For a little added glamour, there are three pretty beaded, crystal drops suspended from the bow at the center gore.

Fit

I have a bit of a belly, and since this was going to be more of a bedroom piece than a wear-around-the-city-to-run-errands piece, I requested a band size one size larger than I normally wear, so that the skirt portion would be a bit fuller.  After some trial and error, I found that the cups run at least one size small, if not two, so the size I kept is one band size larger but with the same cup letter as my regular bras, which gives me a size one cup volume larger than I normally wear.  Parfait bands tend to run true-to-size, if not a bit tight, and I found that to be the case here: the band fits comfortably and slightly looser than I’d normally take, which is consistent with my trying a band one size larger.

I love the deep band and wide straps to support a larger bust, and I tip my hat to Parfait for keeping the wires in their G+ styles much narrower than brands like Elomi or Freya, but unfortunately Parfait’s G+ cups and I just don’t seem to get along. The cups are much shallower than many of the styles I’m used to, and I find my full-all-around boobs can’t get the projection they need to settle into the cups.

The picture above shows the unusual construction of the cups: the outer layer is made of a single piece of fabric, with one seam stitched into it to pull it into shape.  While I think using a single seam for shaping gives this piece a clean, sexy look, a single seam just can’t give the curve, depth, and projection that very full cups need.  As it is, I’m kind of smooshed into the bra, so even though the gore tacks against my sternum, my boobs keep pushing the underwires away from my ribs and slipping out the bottom of the cups.  While some of this may be related to wearing a larger band than normal (and as such is to be expected), ultimately the shallow cups just don’t give me enough room.  As a result, I’m not getting the sort of lift (or the sort of cleavage) and stability I usually like in a bra.

Comfort

While the fit isn’t a great match for me, I still find the babydoll very, very comfortable.  The wide straps and deep band feel amazing– I wish brands like Cleo would make similar adjustments for some of their larger cup sizes, as a deeper band provides much more lift and comfort.  I expected to feel self-conscious about the large open keyhole in the back (as my back is not and has never been what one might call “toned”), but the deep band helps to provide coverage, and the exposed skin just feels very sexy.

Overall, I think this is a really outstanding addition to the full-bust market.  While I hope Parfait continues to refine their G+ shapes and fit (especially to get the cup sizes in line with the rest of the market, so that true K-cup wearers aren’t sized out), having a piece like this available at such a reasonable price is a treat.  I can see it making a fantastic Valentine’s Day, bridal shower, or wedding gift, and it might even be nice for maternity lingerie, since the skirt is very full, stretchy, and soft.  I’d love to see Parfait offer one or two fashion colors each year– how pretty would a bright holiday red or a pale peachy ballet pink be?

This was towards the end of the shoot, oh my hair. My hair is getting so sad and tired. It’s bedroom hair?  Let’s go with that.  Photographer: Caryn Leigh Photography. Lingerie: Parfait (c/o), Dirty Dolls. Peignoir: Dottie’s Delights.

“Alexis” Babydoll ($65.00) is available in sizes 30-40 D-K (UK cup sizes: D, DD, E, F, FF, G, GG, H, HH, J, JJ, K) at Classic Shapewear, Large Cup Lingerie, Bare Necessities (D-H only), Beautyfull Bras, Helen of Troy Bras (D-G only), and Breakout Bras (D-G only), among others.

It’s just been so COLD, you guys.  Julia Lambert’s and my Gchats basically just consist of us moaning “it’s cold” at each other while we google sweaters and tropical vacations we can’t afford.  So today I’m sharing all the things I want to wear right now that will either keep me warm while I’m forced to do things like “go to work” or “be productive”, or that will warm my spirit while I’m snuggled in my bed/drinking hot chocolate/hibernating with the cats.

Wool Stockings

There is nothing that makes me feel sassier than stockings and a suspender/garter belt, but it’s cold outside yo.  Regular stockings are not the most insulating of garments, but thankfully Levante makes beautiful wool stockings to wear with your favorite lingerie ensembles.  Now you can wear your sexy lingerie AND retain feeling in your legs.  Win-win!

Levante plain wool stockings (£10.99), available in black, charcoal, mocha, sherry in sizes medium, tall, and xtall.

Stupidly Expensive Pajamas

Hear me out.

Jenny Packham Long Pyjama Set ($2,000) at Journelle, available in sizes Small, Medium, Large.

I am OBSESSED with Jenny Packham lingerie.  Obsessed.  It is beautiful.  It is the stuff that every princess dream is made of.  It is literally only suited to sweeping around gigantic penthouses and/or castles.  I covet it, despite the fact that I will probably never be able to afford it or fit into it.  Compared to the floating gowns and sumptuous kimonos from A/W 2013, the above pajamas in the current collection really caught my eye: they’re almost jaunty!  Also (you know the drill): polka dots.

Betty Blue’s Loungerie Lucille Robe

Lucille Robe by Betty Blue’s Loungerie. £105.00, available in sizes XS-XL

Does this not look like a snuggly cloud?  It does, doesn’t it?  A warm snuggly pale blue cloud of delight.  It’s calling me and wants me to take it to bed with me.

Cashmere Panties by Econica

Cashmere panties by Econica ($38.00 each; custom colors/sizes for $40.00 each) available in sizes XS-XL in assorted colors.

Well, these are magical.  I have to say that before last year I’d never considered that knitted knickers would ever appeal; and now it’s just SO DANGED COLD (except in the office, where my supervisor has been keeping the thermostat at 75, which makes getting dressed in the morning A TREAT) that these seem like they’d be just the ticket for a weekend sleep-in.

A Classic Fleece Robe

Soft as Snow Robe by Make + Model ($48.00) in Pink/White Stripe. Available in sizes XS-XL and 1X-3X.

Maybe pin-up-inspired pale fluffy blue cloud robes aren’t your thing?  Stick to the basics: I love the classic pink and white stripes on this yummy fleece robe.

Supportive Loungewear

Racerback Top (£30.00) and Fold Lounge Bottoms (£22.00) by Bravissimo. Top in sizes 30-38 D-E, F-G, GG-H, HH-J, bottoms in sizes S-XL.

So, yeah, your arms might get cold, but that’s what your fluffy fleece robes are for, yes?  I really like the grey and mint color combo in Bravissimo’s latest pajamas, and I love that they fit and offer support up to a J-cup!

Stay warm friends.  Happy weekend!

I know, I know, I’ve called about 74 pieces of lingerie “best of the year”; my affections are fickle and ever-changing.  For 2013 I do hereby revoke the title from any previous set I may have foolishly given it to and bequeath it to this one: “Imogen” by Elomi.  In terms of innovation, sophistication, and execution, particularly at this price point, Imogen blew everyone else out of the water.  As soon as I saw it at Curve last February, I knew I wanted to try it for myself, and I was thrilled when Elomi offered me a set of my choice for review.

[Note: while Elomi generously provided this set, all thoughts and opinions are my own]

Photographer: Caryn Leigh Photography. Lingerie: Elomi (c/o). Peignoir: Dottie’s Delights. Hold-Ups: Gaetano Cazzola.

“Imogen” is an elegant, versatile collection consisting of a full-cup bra (up to a JJ-cup), a half-cup bra (up to a G-cup), a waist cincher (or waspie), a full brief, and a thong.  Featuring sheer black floral embroidered mesh laid over butterscotch-colored simplex, I love that the set is dark without being all black– there’s a lovely warmth and delicacy to it that my tragic smartphone pictures below will utterly fail to capture.

Appearance

Stunning?  Beautiful?  Luxurious?  The bra is a four-part cup (a vertical seam in the lower cup, a horizontal seam separating upper and lower cup, and a side panel connecting the lower cup to the strap) featuring a sheer upper cup trimmed in black with matching, slightly puffy bows at the center front of bra and brief.  The bra features fully-adjustable straps and closes with three rows of three columns of hooks-and-eyes, and the cincher closes with two columns of seven rows of hooks and eyes.  The briefs feature elegant panelling details and a sexy sheer mesh back.

As I mentioned, I LOVE that the set isn’t all-black.  All-black lingerie is sexy and classic, don’t get me wrong– much of my lingerie is black or at least trimmed with black.  I just never thought a brown lingerie set would light my fire, but wow.

Fit

I requested the full-cup bra in my most common bra size, and the brief and waist cincher in my usual brief size.  In terms of band size and cup volume, the fit of the bra is spot-on.  I find Elomi’s wires to spread a bit wide for my frame, but that’s really a quibble– I can’t expect an off-the-rack bra to fit my specific body 100% perfectly.  To that end, what got me into trouble was not so much the size as the style.

Simply put, Eveden’s full-cup bras and fuller balcony bras don’t work for me.  Freddy Zappe, Eveden’s national fit specialist, explained the reasons for this to me at last February’s Curve: my boobs are set high on my body and they’re pretty full all-around, and the way Eveden cuts their full-cut bras doesn’t include enough room in the top of the cup.  As a result, the top of the cups dig in to my breast tissue and the center gore can’t tack firmly.  Even sizing up in the cups doesn’t help, as it throws off the fit elsewhere in the bra.  The top of the cups are just too shallow for me.  It doesn’t mean that Imogen, or Fantasie’s “Salsa” style, or Freya’s “Gem” style (which have similar shapes and thus fit me equally poorly) are bad bras; it just means they’re designed for someone whose boobs aren’t as full on top.  If I were in the size range I might have tried the half-cup Imogen bra instead, but as the full cup or the fuller balcony styles are some of the only ones Eveden offers past a G-cup, I just kind of have to make do whenever I want to wear this complete set (and avoid clingy tops).

Now we need to talk about the waspie/waist cincher, and how I think it’s just the greatest.  It’s cut so that the top perfectly lines up with the curve of the bra’s underwire, and on me the bottom slightly overlaps the top of the briefs (I am fairly short-waisted, so it might fall differently on a woman with a longer torso).  What’s lovely about this is it allows you to choose how you want to fit your waist separately from how you want to fit your boobs.  My underbust is  smaller than my waist, so a basque in my true bra size can sometimes squeeze uncomfortably.  With this set, I get the look of a basque with a customized, flexible fit.

I requested the waspie and briefs in what I think of as my usual knicker size, and while I love the fit of the waist cincher, I find the briefs slightly large (as I often do with Elomi’s sister brand, Freya).  If you, like me, occasionally find that Eveden’s briefs run a little big, feel free to size down.  My hips and rear aren’t as curvy as my boobs, so these briefs might work really beautifully on those of you with true hourglass figures.

Me, being a goober. Photographer: Caryn Leigh Photography. Lingerie: Elomi (c/o). Hold-Ups: Gaetano Cazzola. Bustle Skirt: Leg Avenue (currently sold out).

Comfort

While I do occasionally have to adjust the bra throughout the day, on account of the shape incompatibility I talked about above, overall I’ve found the few Elomi bras I’ve tried insanely comfortable.  The bands are deep and sturdy, yet the bottom edge of elastic never digs in the way some other bras do.  Even though the full-cup shape isn’t great for me, I do really like that the wide, soft straps pull more from the center of the bra, rather than the outside edges right at my arms.  This helps prevent slipping straps, and it also helps to provide a little extra lift and stability.  The briefs are higher rise than a bikini brief and yet are slightly lower than a true retro high-waist panty, and they hit me just below my navel.  As this is just about my favorite rise in the world, because it’s super comfortable, I’m a happy girl.

I’ve worn the cincher on both the loosest and tightest columns and been pretty happy in either case.  Because it features elastic and plastic boning instead of cotton coutil and steel boning, like a corset would, it’s not going to offer any sort of radical figure change (you can, in fact, still see the curve of my tummy in the shot above, as well as the clear indentation of my bra band hugging my underbust before my waist thickens).  Neverthless, as light shapewear it functions beautifully– I’ve worn it under a clinging dress and a slim pencil skirt and been really, really pleased with the results- a slight nipping in of the waist plus smoothing.

Behind-the-scenes selfie from the last photo shoot, wearing my beloved Dottie’s Delights froofy robe and marabou slippers (Pleaser).

Overall, this set is an absolute stand-out.  I love the rich, elegant color scheme, and I also think Elomi has plenty of room for creativity here: black with a variety of other colors for more of a boudoir feel, ivory and pastels for a lighter (as well as more bridal) feel.  I might like to see a version of the waist cincher with detachable suspenders for stockings, but as you can see, a pair of hold ups also gets the job done.  I had so much fun wearing it at my boudoir shoot, and pairing it with a tulle bustle skirt from my pole dancing wardrobe for more of a burlesque, costumey look.  In a perfect world I’d ask Elomi to come up with a new bra shape for their G+ customers, since the full-cup doesn’t work for me (and also isn’t the sexiest style in town), but otherwise I think this set is a gorgeous, fantastic addition to the full-figure/full-bust lingerie landscape.

Imogen is available at Nordstrom, Bare Necessities, Breakout Bras, Debenhams, Classic Shapewear, Ample Bosom, and Leia Lingerie.

Full-cup bra: Sizes 34 G-JJ, 36-42 E-JJ, 44 E-G.
Half-cup bra: Sizes 36-42 D-G, 44 D-FF, 46 D-F.
Brief and thong: Sizes M-4XL.
Waist cincher: Sizes M-2XL.

I really think February is just the worst month.  I know it’s a short one, but it drags on FOREVER.  In the Northern Hemisphere it’s still cold and dark, and this year has been particularly full of ice and wet and slush and snow and also the COLD, goodness gracious.  The major holidays are over, and we’ve all returned to business as usual, and yet Spring is still in the distance.  I’ve also been single for every Valentine’s Day of these my 29 years on Earth, and even though it’s a totally manufactured holiday and I’m happy hanging out with me (and Gus and Ruby) and I don’t need love to define my life etc. etc., this month is usually still kind of terrible.

WHICH IS WHY I’M MAKING IT BETTER.  With pudding.

This pudding is so many of my favorite things rolled into one.  It’s pure, unadulterated comfort food, yet it’s also sophisticated.  And simple, rich, decadent, creamy, dense, and a whole host of other delicious, delicious qualities.  It’s like pudding meets custard meets heaven. While it packs a serious punch on its own, thanks to bittersweet chocolate with a dash of cocoa and espresso powder, you should really experiment with some different toppings, because they make it absolutely transcendent.

If you DO happen to be celebrating Valentine’s Day with a loved one this year, might I suggest you do so with chocolate pudding?  According to legend chocolate is a powerful aphrodisiac, the texture of this bad boy is SINFUL (dear god it is LUSH), and the best part?  It’s make-ahead, y’all.  Who wants to get a romantic dinner going only to have to pause to do the dishes or put a soufflé in the oven?  No one.  Just pull the serving dishes out of the fridge, add a topping of your choice, and enjoy!

Bittersweet Chocolate Pudding
(adapted, barely, from Bon Appetit)

6 oz. bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
1 c. heavy cream
2 c. whole milk
4 egg yolks
1/2 vanilla bean
1 c. granulated sugar
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
2 tbsp. cornstarch
2 tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder
1 tbsp. instant espresso powder (optional)
1 tsp. vanilla extract

To garnish:

1/2 c. heavy whipping cream
1 tbsp. confectioner’s (powdered) sugar
1/2 vanilla bean

Choice of:
Mini pretzels
Chopped peanuts
Chopped chocolate-covered espresso beans
Ground cinnamon
Chopped toasted or candied nuts: walnuts, pecans, pistachios, almonds, etc.
Maraschino cherries
Caramel sauce
Raspberry coulis
Dessert liqueur: Bailey’s, Nocello, Kahlúa, Crème de Menthe, etc.

For the pudding:

Melt the chocolate (either in the microwave at 20-second intervals, stirring well after each interval, or in a double-boiler over medium-low heat), stirring until smooth.  Set aside and allow to cool slightly at room temperature.

Whisk together the cream, milk, and egg yolks.  Scrape in the seeds from half a vanilla bean (save the other half for the whipped cream garnish), whisk, and then add the vanilla bean pod.

In a medium saucepan, whisk together the sugar, salt, cocoa powder, cornstarch, and espresso powder (if using), then slowly add the cream/egg mixture, whisking until smooth.  Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, whisking frequently to avoid clumps.  Once the mixture boils, reduce heat to medium-low and continue to cook for about four minutes, until the custard is quite thick and smooth.  Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the vanilla extract and melted chocolate.  Pour the pudding through a fine-meshed strainer into a large bowl or measuring cup.  Transfer the pudding to individual bowls and cover with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap against the pudding’s surface.  Chill for at least 4 hours.  Makes 6-8 servings, depending on the size of your serving dishes.

Clockwise from top left: raspberry coulis and maraschino cherry, pretzels and peanuts, chocolate-covered espresso beans and a dash of cinnamon, toasted walnuts and Nocello liqueur.

Now comes the fun part!  While this pudding is insanely decadent on its own, it’s also a fantastic base recipe to indulge in a little creativity.  I think a dollop of lightly-sweetened homemade whipped cream flecked with vanilla beans is a must, but beyond that, the sky’s the limit!

For a fun salty-sweet crunch, sprinkle over some chopped pretzels and peanuts.  For a bit of sophistication, add a drizzle of your favorite liqueur, like Nocello (this is the bottle of walnut liqueur that WILL NEVER DIE, so you’re going to keep seeing it turn up until I can figure out a way to get rid of it all), Kahlúa, Crème de Menthe, Bailey’s, etc.  To get your heart racing (literally), add some chopped chocolate-covered espresso beans and a dash of ground cinnamon (you can also up the amount of espresso powder in the pudding itself).  For a sweetly retro look add a maraschino cherry and a drizzle of rasberry coulis!  To make a raspberry (or mixed berry) coulis, let 1 c. of frozen raspberries thaw, then pulse in a blender with a teaspoon of granulated sugar and a teaspoon of fresh lemon juice until fully liquefied.  Strain the mixture through a fine-meshed sieve to remove the seeds, and then pour a spoonful over your favorite dessert.

Seriously, this one tasted like a cinnamon-spiced mocha latte.

These are the few variations I tried, but there are so many others!  What about shards of nut brittle, or a drizzle of caramel sauce (like this lovely Lavender Blossom Caramel Sauce, for example), or some crushed Oreos, or even a few simple mint leaves?  OR BACON?  Feel free to get creative, but don’t garnish until just before you serve: part of the deliciousness comes from the play of different textures, and if you garnish ahead of time all your crispy/crunchy bits will get soft.

*     *     *     *     *

Bravissimo does holiday lingerie so, so well.  I love this year’s Hearts Amour collection, in a rich, deep red with black embroidered swirls and tiny pink hearts.

“Hearts Amour” collection by Bravissimo. Half cup bra (£34.00) in sizes 28-38 DD-HH, brief (£16.00), thong (£14.00), and suspender belt (£16.00) in sizes XS-2XL

I really like that this set feels “special”, with its wine color and subtle pink hearts and sassy suspender belt, but it’s still so totally wearable.  As much fun as sweeping robes and, like, marabou puffballs and sassy sheer babydolls can be, there’s no need to save this set solely for special occasions.

Enjoy!

I may be alone in this sentiment, but animal prints in fashion don’t generally light my fire.  Leopard-print trench coats?  Pass.  Snake-print shoes?  Pass.  Tiger-striped scarves?  Pass.  Animal-print lingerie usually irritates me too: it can be a lazy design default for some mass-market brands, as though one of the higher-ups said “well, we’ve done white, beige, black, and red; let’s make a leopard one for The Sexy.”  Sheesh.

“Jasmine” by Panache in Animal Print. Sizes 30-38 D-K (UK), matching brief sizes XS-XXL

The thing is, this season, I feel like maybe my prejudices were blinding me to some really, really lovely lingerie sets.  It all started when I saw Panache’s new leopard print for the super-popular “Jasmine” at August’s Curve.  I liked it!  I really, really, REALLY liked it!  I could even see myself wearing it!  But it was animal-print– was I betraying all that I held dear?  I thought maybe I needed to step away from it for a bit, and then all my usual feelings would reassert themselves.  Nope, now it’s February, and the bra is starting to appear in stock at my favorite retailers, and it’s still calling my name.  Panache seems to have had some trouble with prints for Jasmine; apart from the first black/bird print, none has really appealed to me.  Now, when they choose to use the print I’m conditioned to hate, I absolutely adore it.  Oh Panache, you tricksters.  You win again.  I’ve already set aside some of my discretionary budget on two other sets this Spring, but if I had the cash to spare this one would be coming home with me in a heartbeat.

Falling in love with the animal-print Jasmine made me want to explore some other sets I might have bypassed the first time I saw them, simply because I tend to reject animal-print anything out of hand.  In a shocking twist that surprises no one, I was missing out on some beauties!

1.  ”Vava” by Miss Mandalay

“Vava” in Jade by Miss Mandalay, sizes 28-36 D-HH (some sizes sold out).

This pretty padded bra by Miss Mandalay won me over simply by using my lingerie Kryptonite: the color green.  Gorgeous!  I’ve tried this and found it to run a bit snug, so I recommend sizing up in both the band and the cups.

2.  ”Coco Loco” by Mimi Holliday

“Coco Loco” by Mimi Holliday. Silk chiffon balcony bra, lace shoulder bra, classic knicker, suspender, and lace boyshort. Bra sizes begin at 28 D-FF and carry up to 38 C-D, depending on style.

Since the theme of today is apparently “fashion things that I don’t like”, the alleged Pantone color of the year, Radiant Orchid?  Yeah, I hate it.  I want no part of it.  Sorry Pantone, can we go back to Emerald?  I was on board with Emerald.  Radiant Orchid isn’t lighting my fire.  And yet here we are, with the sassy Mimi Holliday “Coco Loco” collection featuring not only vibrant leopard but also Radiant freaking Orchid, and I’m totally down with it.  This is delightful.

3.  ”Kayla” by Goddess

“Kayla” in Magenta by Goddess. Available in sizes 34 I-N, 36 DDD-N, 38-42 DD-N, 44 DD-L, 46 DD-K.

Continuing with the Radiant freaking Orchid (well, magenta), Goddess offers a vibrant animal print bra for fuller figures in both an underwired and wire-free style.  Though Goddess is an Eveden company, their bras feature US sizes, so the cup size progression goes like this: D, DD, DDD, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N.  Kayla is also available in teal as well as a fun purple zebra stripe.

4.  ”Leslie” by Parfait

“Leslie” by Parfait contour bra and high-waist brief, available in sizes 30-40 D-G (UK).

Built along the same lines as their popular “Charlotte” style, Parfait offers this lovely leopard set, paired with black contrast trim, sheer mesh panels, and bright red bows.  I love the high-waist knicker with sheer sides!  I’ve heard rumors this set might get a cup size expansion soon– has anyone else heard this?

5.  ”Mae” by Affinitas

“Mae” by Affinitas padded bra and thong. Sizes 30-38 A-DD.

For the more petite, Parfait’s sister brand Affinitas offers a slinky padded bra, ruffled thong, and even a coordinating camisole.  This set is on sale at various retailers, so you might be able to grab a bargain!

6.  ”Marlena” by Crème Bralée

“Marlena” by Crème Bralée. Available in sizes 32-44 C-G (US sizes: C, D, DD, DDD, G).

Crème Bralée launched in 2013 with a range of pretty, flirty bras, knickers, and accessories in band sizes ranging from 32-44, including “Marlena”, a dramatic plunge bra with a matching ruched suspender belt.  While the current cup size range is smaller than some of the other styles I’ve shared today, I may have exciting news on that front before too long!

7.  ”Savannah” by Panache Swim

“Savannah” by Panache Swim. 30-38 D-G (UK)

Now let’s return to Panache and take a gander at some swimwear.  There’s some nice continuity between the main Panache lingerie styles and the swim styles for this season.  ”Jasmine” is available in both an animal-print and a white-and-floral print; the same goes for “Savannah” on the swimwear front.  Much as it surprises me to say so, I prefer the animal-print over the floral in both the lingerie range and the swim.

“Savannah” by Panache molded bikini in animal print, sizes 30-38 D-G (UK).

Animal prints usually feel especially cheesy to me in swimwear, yet I think Panache has pulled it off with a great deal of elegance.  Both the swimsuit and bikini are glamorous and slightly retro– I especially love the gorgeous bandeau swimsuit with detachable straps! I only wish, selfishly and also for some of my fit clients, that these two styles were available past a G cup.

8.  ”Maya” by Cleo

“Maya” by Cleo, available in sizes 28-38 D-J (UK).

And then there’s Cleo‘s take on animal print in their “Maya” style, which, sorry, just looks BANANAS to me.  It’s so all over the place!  Pastel floral embroidery with rainbow animal-print cups and neon accents?  What is even going on?

“Maya” by Cleo, available in sizes 28-38 D-J (UK).

Oh Cleo, you beautiful tropical fish: I do not understand this bra. Maybe this is a bra for someone with a wildly different personal style to my own.  I admit that the lookbook images above sell the bra a lot better than just seeing it on the floor at Curve– the model, the styling, and the location are all helping enormously.  But where Panache went for classic and came up with winners, I can’t help but find Cleo’s take a little, well, tacky.  But then I look at the images again and I think maybe it works?  Please help me sort out my feelings.

9.  Bonus F/W 2014 Preview: “Deco Rebel” by Freya

“Deco Rebel” by Freya. Available in sizes 28 D-G, 30 D-GG, 32-36 B-GG, 38 B-G (UK)

Finally, as a sneak peek of some of the treats in store for the Fall (and as a preview of what we’ll be seeing at the trade shows at the end of the month), Freya will offer an animal print version of their beloved and hugely popular Deco molded plunge bra.  This feels like such a natural fit for both the brand and the bra style– well done, Freya!

What’s your take on animal print?  Any of these sets catch your eye?  I’ll be interested to see what designers have in store for us for the Fall when I head to Lingerie Fashion Week next week!

It’s that time again: Lingerie Fashion Week returns this week to preview the upcoming Fall/Winter 2014 collections!  The fun begins tomorrow night with the opening runway show from Bradelis New York and continues through Saturday, with a closing runway show from Affinitas and Parfait.  This season moves to a new venue and features more designers than ever, including some of my favorites like FYI by Dani Read and Nevaeh.

No rest for the wicked though: Sunday is the opening day of both Curve, the North American lingerie trade show, where hundreds of lingerie, loungewear, and swimwear brands preview their collections for retailers and press, and The Lingerie Collective, a curated showroom of luxury independent brands.  It’s always a (somewhat exhausting) whirlwind, and a wonderful chance to see what new designs and trends are in store for us, to connect with designers from around the world, to discover new brands, and to catch up with some of my favorite fellow bloggers!

My calendar is booked solid, with visits to both firm favorites (big brands like Panache, Freya, Elomi, and Parfait, and indies like Dottie’s Delights and Angela Friedman) as well as some exciting new ones.  I can’t wait to see Iris London and Layneau Collection at LingerieFW, Sunday Intimates and Flirty Pretty Things at Curve, and Harlow & Fox at their showroom!

Are you curious about what your favorite brands will have in store for the Fall and Winter?  Let me know in the comments if there are any in particular you’d like to see, and I’ll do my best to get the scoop.  I’ll be sharing live photos from all events on Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook, so please join me there for real-time updates.  And of course, if you plan to attend any of the events, I hope to see you there!

Lingerie FW kicks off the Fall/Winter 2014 shows with a runway presentation from Bradelis New York.  Bradelis specializes in lingerie for petite women (30-34 B-F cup sizes, and be warned: they run a bit small), and the bras are girly, feminine, pretty, and powerful: Bradelis’ “III-Step System” creates some pretty incredible cleavage.  I had the pleasure of visiting the boutique last year with friends and watching as they were fitted into Bradelis bras, and the results were … well, they were romance-novel-cover-worthy.  Heaving bosoms ahoy, if you follow me.  While not every woman wants major push-up cleavage all the time, if that IS the sort of thing that floats your boat, and you are used to wearing smaller cup sizes, I strongly recommend checking out Bradelis.  Prepare to be amazed!

The show in August impressed me with some unexpected colors and overall loveliness, so I had high hopes for a lovely opening night.

I have to apologize in advance for the dearth of pictures, particularly good ones– the show was packed!  I managed to get a few good snaps from the presentation, but the runway show?  Not so much.  Here’s the view from my seat:

There was this group of middle-aged dudes in the front row who have no idea that there was a lingerie blogger mutiny being planned several rows behind them.

I’m going to need to talk about the collection and the show separately, I think, because, to me, the latter did not do the former any justice.  I was pleased to see a continuation of the fun florals from Spring/Summer carrying through into the Fall.  Just because it’s getting colder doesn’t mean color should go away!  Furthermore, Bradelis’ florals are loud, joyous, and color-saturated: no meek ditsy floral prints here.  I was particularly enamored of the “Evelyn” and “Florence” collections (both “Step I” bras, for those who are interested), which included floral print bras with floral embroidery, ruffled thongs, and matching floaty camisoles.

Many designers opt to delve into jewel tones and darker shades in Fall/Winter, and it was nice to see how Bradelis incorporated some really gorgeous black lace pieces without letting go of their lighter, girlier side.  Some collections featured black lace on white backgrounds or white lace on black backgrounds; instead of a deep ruby red, there was a rich raspberry pink, and while most of the ranges did include a pale pink bra (perhaps Bradelis’ signature color), others included pretty duck-egg blues and pale aquas.

Bradelis does a really magnificent job of creating lingerie that feels girly, but not “little girly”.  While you won’t find bondage influences, clean colorblocking, or androgynous pieces here, the diversity of styles on display that remained true to what I think of as the “Bradelis aesthetic” was really impressive.  Yes, there were pale pink frilly lacy bras, but there was also an insanely elegant black bodysuit that I’m really sad I couldn’t get a photograph of.  Yes, there are cute floral prints, but there’s also a truly elegant black and white lace bra and panty set that pairs with a beautiful floating kimono (which tragically didn’t appear on the runway).

The mix of frilly and sultry really hit my sweet spot– if I were in the right size range, I could easily see myself wearing any of the four sets above, depending on the day and my mood.  The collection is sunny, pretty, and classic, and longtime fans of the brand won’t be disappointed.

So, about the show itself: after weeks of freezing temperatures, I’d hoped to sit back and bask in the glow of some cheerful lingerie.  Unfortunately, the rather glum show really dimmed the collection’s luster.  It started over an hour late, and it started abruptly, so abruptly that it took some parts of the crowd a while to even realize there was a woman in underwear walking down the runway.  The models sped down the runway to the accompanying generic club music so quickly that it was hard to keep track of what we’d already seen and what was new.  And then there was this:

For the second season in a row, Bradelis cast its show with absolutely no racial diversity.  Last season they were the only brand at LingerieFW that did so, and it stood out jarringly.  To see the same thing happen again was deeply, deeply disappointing.

Not only were the (undeniably lovely) models all white, but they were all styled exactly the same (long, slightly starched-looking center-parted curls, pink lips, tans), wore the same beige heeled sandals (I am irrationally prejudiced against beige shoes: they are the lazy stylist’s ultimate crutch), and walked with the same intense, slightly harried urgency.  Between the repetitive looks, the forgettable (slash terrible) music, and the gray cement walls and runway, the show felt grim, bland, and generic.  It undermined everything that makes the brand a success.  Look at the two Spring/Summer lookbook images at the top of the post– sure, it’s a white lady with curled hair, but there’s a story, a sense of kitsch and playfulness.  She’s even wearing a hat!  If you can wear a hat with lingerie, ALWAYS wear a hat with lingerie.  There’s a glow, a sparkle, and a brightness to the brand that I see so, so clearly in the products, in the lookbooks, and in the boutiques.  This runway show completely failed to tell that story.

*****

Have you tried a Bradelis bra before?  I advise getting fitted in one of the boutiques if you’re new to the brand, as the fitting approach is brand-specific (and rather, um, hands-on), but they’re also just really lovely, cheerful, frilly, girly places to shop.  If you’ve never visited, I strongly recommend it!

Naked Princess has been on my radar for a while now, ever since Holly at The Full-Figured Chest mentioned how much she loved her Naked Princess micromodal bodysuit.  Naked Princess offers luxury lingerie and loungewear featuring delicate laces, silks, and soft modal.  The pieces exude an easy, relaxed sensuousness that could easily transition from everyday wear to special occasions.

Lace and Silk Blindfold by Naked Princess

These pieces look both luxurious, with their French Leavers Lace and silk trims, and comfortable, with their impossibly soft modal knit.  Naked Princess also offers some really luscious-looking beauty items like scented boudoir & body candles or body scrubs and lip glosses.  I was curious to see how the light, sensual boudoir feel would translate to the runway.

While the runway show ran into some of the same problems as Bradelis’ show the day before (mainly bad music and lack of racial diversity in the cast), mostly it was just BEAUTIFUL.  I mean seriously, seriously gorgeous.  I wanted to reach out and touch EVERYTHING.

The pieces ran the gamut from lace bralettes and sheer chiffon chemises to sweeping silk gowns and snuggly hooded modal robes.  A gorgeously rich palette of cranberry, teal, black, and ivory felt both festive and slightly regal.

Jeez, I loved this piece. I’m on a bodysuit kick lately, and this one is stunning.

I wish I’d had four hands, so I could have taken video simultaneously, because the pieces moved so, so beautifully.  That lovely teal blue bodysuit above was not only sexy as all get out, it also looked soft and comfortable.  The black silk chiffon chemise below moved like smoke or shadow, and the adorable sheer print romper almost shimmered under the lights.

As much as I love lace and sassy sheer lingerie, once the show moved into the heavy silk pieces and flowing modal, things really kicked into another gear.

I want it.

I really really really want it.

Elegant.

Paging Lady Mary Crawley.

Total vixen.

Jaunty! Dapper! In a totally luscious color.

This is modal and it had the most stunning floating skirt that swirled as she walked and there are these dramatic revealing cutouts and it’s basically a super swanky gown that probably feels like you’re wearing nothing at all and if I owned one I’d never take it off.

I spent most of the show muttering “oh wow” and “well THAT’S gorgeous” and “ooooh I want to touch it” at the woman sitting next to me.  The whole collection felt like a really wonderful step forward for the brand.  It retains the soft knit fabric and beautiful lace from previous collections, while really kicking things up a notch in terms of shape, color, structure, and sophistication.  It’s really hard for me to pick a favorite look, but I think it’s a toss-up between the white gown/long robe look (the robe floated so majestically after her down the aisle– y’all know I love the drama) and the ivory babydoll and tap pant set.  The ivory babydoll is a delicious mix of cheeky and elegant, and the gown and robe look effortlessly regal.  I hope Naked Princess continues to show their collections at Lingerie Fashion Week– the pieces are lovely in photos, but they are majestic in motion.

The second show of Day 2 presented a group of up-and-coming designers curated by The Lingerie Journal, featuring some brands that have been creating major buzz over the last year.

Arsenic & Vieilles Dentelles

This lovely brand has some NAUGHTY pieces, y’all, and I think they’re all pretty terrific.  Arsenic & Vieilles Dentelles (“Arsenic & Old Lace”, in French) comes to us from Belgium and revels in sensuality.  The clean, delicate black-and-white color scheme allows sheer bralettes, barely-there strappy knickers, and cheeky, ruffled ouvert knickers to surprise and charm.  I particularly like almost all of the knickers, actually– nothing feels forced, or in-your-face, but the sensuality is still direct, with no coyness or apology.  The briefs featured in the presentation have a sheer back that buttons all the way up (super sexy), and I love the different scales of the polka dot pattern in the briefs and suspender belt.

Blackbird Underpinnings

Many of you might recall Blackbird Underpinnings‘ successful Kickstarter campaign from 2013, as well as their signature velvet knickers.  It was a treat to see a taste of this brand in person, although I’m particularly enamored of the silk charmeuse bloomers, myself.  Crushed velvet knickers will never fail to remind me of cheer uniforms, and the bloomers so perfectly capture the brand’s flirty, vintage-inspired aesthetic.

Iris London

Of all of the brands I’ve seen or will be seeing this week (and oh golly, there are so many– so. much. underwear. Not complaining, mind), I was probably most looking forward to seeing Iris London.  It’s . . . I’m sorry, I’m not the best fashion writer in the world, you guys.  As much as I know about underwear, there are centuries and decades of previous influences and innovators that I’m just not familiar enough with to make truly informed, intelligent comments.  So I leave you with this: it’s super pretty.

Okay, I can say a little more than that.  There are clear influences from previous decades, from the soft, unstructured look of the 1970s to the more opulent and structured look of the 1930s-1950s.  There is lace and luxurious silk.  There are strappy elements, for those of you who like your lingerie with a bit of bondage flair.   There are even delightfully unexpected details, like a  Liberty-print cotton longline bra with detachable gold chain straps.  There are pieces that might appeal to women with wildly differing personal styles, yet the collection feels cohesive, united by a meticulous regard for shapes and details.

Lola Haze

Lola Haze at Lingerie Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014

This might be my favorite Lola Haze piece I’ve ever seen in my life.  Gleaming, supple silk, a wisp of sheer black, and an astral sweep of sparkle make this chemise really, really special.  The sparkle elements reminded me at some moments of mineral deposits in the earth and at other moments of constellations in the Milky Way.  The asymmetrical hemline emphasizes the organic, elemental theme– it’s like this piece was created out of the natural world, not stitched on a machine out of silk.  Just stunning.

Negative Underwear

Negative Underwear is the only brand in this group that’s wholly new to me, and it’s a pleasure to get to know them.  Their aesthetic (and, indeed, raison d’être) is minimalist, sleek, stylish, and effortless.  Their aim is to strip away anything unnecessary or uncomfortable from their undergarments, leaving only smooth, sleek, and well-fitting bras and knickers.  While I do love structured and heavily embellished pieces, I am really impressed with how Negative Underwear makes their collection feel clean and sleek without feeling stripped.

Nevaeh Intimates

Y’all know how I feel about Nevaeh.  I profiled the brand in 2013 after falling in love with both of their earlier Lingerie Fashion Week presentations.  It’s the kind of lingerie I imagine the protagonist wearing in one of those Great Epic Romances that take place in Important Novels of Our Time, most likely in the first half of the 20th century.  I really love how the brand takes retro or vintage styles as inspiration but brings them well into the 21st century.  You won’t find careful recreations of vintage styles here, but you will catch echoes of timeless romance.  The Fall/Winter collection clearly builds on the “Taste of Honey” collection from the current season, reinterpreting the floral pattern in a rich, midnight blue.  I so wish I could have seen a few more pieces– one just isn’t enough!

I couldn’t wait to see FYI by Dani Read again.  As the opening night show from last February’s shows, the brand dazzled me with luxury lingerie and loungewear under a decidedly dark, bondage influence.  I love the sophistication and care she brings to each of her designs, the contrast of soft, sheer silk robes and bodysuits with leather straps and cuffs and chains.

The new collection, “The Muse of the Violets”, continues to embody the slogan “Women are Weapons”, exploring the juxtaposition of freedom and restraint, light and dark, and soft and sharp.  The models wore multifaceted, seductive, and aggressive ensembles of black and white, shot through with tinges of pale violet.

While last season’s “Isis” collection featured several mythical touches, like golden headpieces or winding cuffs, this collection incorporated some great athletic elements, like (ouvert) bike shorts, a (sheer mesh) short pleated skirt, black athletic shoes, and studded baratta gloves.  I love how Dani takes classic or even cliched pieces (like a short pleated tennis skirt) and reinterprets them in a new, provocative way.  The results are always deeply cool and very, very sexy.

Some favorite styles returned: I adore the molded bra with the wide elastic straps across the back, above, as well as Dani’s leather bustiers, silk robes, and shibari robe harness.   The popular binding brief, a low-rise knicker with five feet of silk sash, also made a welcome return.  The sash can be wound decoratively around the waist, or it can be used for soft bondage.

While Dani’s presentations always show beautiful attention to detail, with carefully-chosen music and staging (in this case, trails of pale violet flower petals, echoing the watercolor-like violet accents) and with each model wearing a unique ensemble, what I love most about her shows is how much they make me think– they’re like poems; I keep discovering new dimensions the longer I stay with them.

Dani binds her model’s wrists to her garters. Like you do.

I left this show dazzled again by the seemingly paradoxical stories it told.  Many (if not most) of the models wore garments that doubled as items of restraint, yet they also wore aggressive elements like studs, leather, badass shoes, and fierce hair and makeup.  This collection incorporated more white, presenting a more even balance of light and dark, which made the addition of soft, delicate violet tinge feel more surprising amidst the sharp edges in black and white.

At first the light, delicate floral elements surprised me: in the lingerie world I’d expect to see touches like this for Spring/Summer instead, not Fall/Winter.  And then I thought “Dani is not so cliched, DUMMY,” and then I thought about how violet, in addition to black (and white, too, actually), is a color of mourning in some cultures.  Flowers themselves are usually associated with life; violets specifically are associated with death.  Lingerie is associated with intimate bedroom moments; Dani presents it as outerwear and styles it with lace-up sneakers.  Even the pieces themselves shift and change: a bra unzips and changes from a halter to a strapless bra, a soft silk sash becomes a wrist restraint, leather garters become anchors for a shibari tie.

Dani’s work speaks so elegantly against the stereotype that lingerie is about making a woman merely decorative.  Whether restrained or ready for action, the FYI woman is multifaceted, nuanced, and changeable.

The final day of Lingerie Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014 began with an elegant, sophisticated presentation from Layneau Collection.  In a market that is rich with cute, trendy, occasionally frilly options for younger customers, Layneau is a true luxury brand (prices in the $850-2500 range) designed for a more sophisticated and mature woman.

“Ameliee” Silk Charmeuse Slip

The pieces are dazzling, in dramatic, luxurious silk, lace, and charmeuse.  Many of the pieces are customizable, with options ranging from the addition of lace trims, a beautiful palette of colors, and custom hem lengths.

The Fall/Winter 2014 collection, “Queens and Princesses”, features elegant silk gowns, short and airy chemises, and luxurious velvet robes and bed jackets.

Set to the strains of the Boudreaux String Quartet (and the accompaniment of some bubbly), the collection literally glowed– this silk is SUMPTUOUS.

I wasn’t sure about some of the designs in the lookbook, but seeing them in person changed my mind.  They’re absolutely beautiful and impeccably detailed– the lace alone made me gasp.  I can see pieces appealing to women of a wide range of ages and personal styles.  Some felt light and simple, still others more structured and glamorous.

Layneau is a super, super sophisticated brand.  This is luxury lingerie, and priced accordingly, and as a result of that and the elegant, classic shapes, the brand skews a little older, a little more mature than some of the others we saw.  I was therefore so, so pleased to see that the presentation featured models in a range of ages.

Not only do I desperately need the long, dramatic, rich purple velvet (and silk-lined) gown with gathered sleeves for all those times I’m sweeping around my ancestral manor home (as one does), how stunning are both of those models?  One looks like Sargent’s Madame X, the other needs only a diamond coronet to earn her a spot on Downton Abbey.  A beautiful show and a truly beautiful collection.

*****

After the soothing elegance of the Layneau Collection presentation, the Kix’ies Thigh Highs show was a bold, literally acrobatic change of pace.

Y’all might not know this, but I am a HUGE thigh high/stay up fan: they’re my absolute first choice when it comes to hosiery.  Stockings are gorgeous, but they can slide down without the right kind of suspender belt, and tights always dig into my waist and make feel bloated and uncomfortable by the end of the day.  Thigh highs are my favorite, plus they make me feel vaguely like I could be ready for a cancan at a moment’s notice (Gaîté Parisienne was one of my childhood ballet recitals, and it clearly left its mark), so I had high hopes for a fun, cheeky presentation.

I was running slightly late back to the show, but most of Lingerie Fashion Week ran late anyway, so I got there in time to see three amazing aerialists at work!  In addition to the presentation models (including a few familiar faces from the Layneau presentation), Kix’ies featured some really incredible contortion and aerial work from some super limber dancers.

The Lingerie Lesbian asked me at one point during this show if I could do any of the things these dancers were doing, and then I asked her if she was okay, because she’d clearly taken leave of her senses.

I was beyond delighted to discover a pair of Kix’ies in my press bag (the ones with polka dots, no less!), and I tried them out later in the week during Curve.  They are, in a word, fantastic, with an incredibly soft and silky feel, a great fit (the sample was a size “B”), and a sturdy-yet-stylish trademark striped elastic and silicon band that does not budge.  I’m eager to try another style, and I’d definitely recommend them, even if you aren’t planning to suspend yourself upside down in midair from an oversized spinning hoop.

Kix’ies offers four different sizes for a customized fit, in addition to four different sizes for maternity wear.  A portion of every purchase is donated to The Leukemia & Lymphoma Society.

*****

I’ll be back next week with the final shows from Lingerie Fashion Week, before diving into some trend reports from Curve!  It looks like Fall/Winter 2014 is going to be a really strong season– I can’t wait to share it with you!  Have a wonderful weekend, and stay warm!

I love that there’s always a presentation at Lingerie Fashion Week that’s dedicated to NYC and USA-based indie brands.  As much as I thank the internet for opening my eyes to a huge range of international brands and styles that are available from mass-market retailers (as a full-bust woman, that’s pretty much all I can wear if I want a supportive, affordable bra), I love any opportunity I have to shop local or handmade.  Not only are indie designers often more daring and more innovative than the big brands, it’s reassuring to know that the people responsible for making your undergarments have been paid fairly and treated well.  This year’s presentation featured one of my favorite brands from past seasons, a brand I’d been dying to see in real life, and a brand that was totally new to me.

NaiS

I adore New York City-based NaiS‘ slightly boho, slightly futuristic aesthetic.  Presentations from past seasons (F/W 13 and S/S 14) impressed with sophisticated color stories, inspired styling, and creative shapes.

I feel like each new season builds beautifully from the previous ones– some familiar shapes (like the lace bodysuit) returned in a gorgeous new color, and new pieces like a strapless bra with high-waist knickers arrived in great colors.  For F/W 14 Anais worked with a palette inspired by gemstones, including amethysts, emeralds, garnets, and topaz.

I even love the slouchy, chic jumpsuit, and in general I am not a jumpsuit person!

The styling was fantastic as always, as the models sported black stars on their cheeks and glittering gold lips.  NaiS is now available at several New York City boutiques, and Modcloth even carries a selection of styles.

Clare Bare

I’ve followed Clare Bare on social media for a while now, and so it was a pleasure to see the Los Angeles-based brand in person.

The pieces channels darker bondage-inspired elements through the lens of soft, loosely structured silhouettes like bralettes, bodysuits, and garter tanks, and the results are sultry, sweet, and very, very wearable.

LOVE these knickers!

This season’s presentation featured some fabulous sherbet colors blended softly together, which softened darker elements like a leather waspie and black strap details for a look that’s approachable but also super sexy.  I particularly loved the strappy brief (above) and the long-sleeved black garter shirt!

Sophi Reaptress

This brand is entirely new to me.  Based in Philadelphia, the collection features loungewear pieces like hoodies and leggings that offer some major shape and proportion play.

The hoodies are oversized and angular, with sweeping hems and deep hoods, while fitted, overlong sleeves (or no sleeves at all) tip the look away from the cloisters and back onto the streets.

On the website I particularly liked the bamboo and cotton romper with tight, ruched long sleeves– it felt almost like an update of a Victorian mourning garment, both severe and sexy at the same time.  The presentation made the leggings really stand out, and I loved the jeweled crowns worn by some of the models.

*****

Tomorrow I’ll cover the final runway show, featuring favorites Affinitas and Parfait.  Any pieces or trends really catch your eye?

“Charlotte” (Parfait) in Purple Wine

It’s become something of a tradition for Affinitas & Parfait to present the closing runway show of Lingerie Fashion Week.  It’s pretty fun seeing them on the runway: both brands make creative twists on classic shapes and styles at incredibly accessible price points.  While I enjoy seeing the unusual or outlandish (like last year’s Rococo Dessous show), it’s also a real treat to see lingerie go down the runway and think “oh! I could wear that!”  While the first two seasons’ shows were marred by some pretty terrible fit (not just in the bras) and some very bland styling, I was really happy to see that this season’s show stepped up its game.

“Coco” (Affinitas)

First of all, we had lighting and set design!  Hurray!  The runway was lined with electric blue lights, with pretty projections of bare tree branches against the walls, and pedestals with white branches and violet flowers spilling out stood on either side of the runway.  It lent the show the look and feel of a formal evening event, highlighting both collections’ more glamorous look.

“Sasha” (Affinitas)

In seasons past, the two brands have been styled differently, with Affinitas skewing younger and sweeter and Parfait sultrier and more grown-up.  I enjoyed seeing how the show brought the two lines closer together in tone, so that the both sets of sizes felt equally sophisticated.  Fall/Winter collections often feature darker colors, heavier embroidery, and sultrier looks, and Affinitas/Parfait was no exception, but the execution was wonderful, and there were some great surprises.

“Lara” (Affinitas)

First of all, a huge round of applause from me: A+ styling.  Boring beige shoes were replaced with some pretty kickass strappy black heels, the models with long hair all sported incredibly sleek low ponytails, there was some really great jewelry (the model at the top of the post in the new purple wine colorway for Parfait’s Charlotte bra?  She is perfection), and stockings!  The models who wore garments with suspenders wore stockings!  All is right in my world.

“Jeannie” (Parfait)

Animal print looks to be huge for 2014, with popular Leslie getting a new blue animal colorway, but I really liked the rich “panther” colorway for Parfait’s molded plunge “Jeannie” style, above.  Both brands presented some classic jewel tones, with Affinitas offering pretty purple and red versions of new style “Sasha”.  Parfait brought out purple and turquoise for Charlotte and Danielle respectively, and I thought I wasn’t going to care for them, and then I got to see them up close and in person at Curve, and I have to say, the Peacock Blue version of Danielle is TO DIE FOR.  I lurved it.  Parfait, if you’re taking requests for the the next style to take up to a K-cup, Danielle Danielle Danielle gets my vote.

“Delphine” (Parfait)

While black and jewel tones aren’t unusual for Fall/Winter, floral prints are, and I frankly think Parfait does a bang-up job with theirs.  They offer an unusual mix of teal, brown, and pink against a lilac base, and it should be musty and fussy, and instead it just WORKS.  But my favorite is the unusual black and red floral print for “Casey” below; I even looked across the aisle and mouthed “ooh, I LIKE that” to another writer, who responded with vigorous nods.

“Casey” (Parfait)

Two other styles really stood out to me, because my first response was also “ooh, I like that!”, only to be followed by “oh. That’s because I RECOGNIZE that.”  Behold:

“Kitty” (Parfait)

“Lea” (Affinitas)

“Lea” (Affinitas)

These are fantastic sets, don’t get me wrong.  I love the polka dots on the “Kitty” babydoll, and if it came in my size I’d wear it in a freaking heartbeat.  The scalloped edges and pinstripe details on the pink and black “Lea” collections are so striking.  The problem?

“Marcie” babydoll by Cleo

“Ritzy” by Curvy Kate

They’ve already been done.  Seriously, as these sets were coming down the runway I thought “Oh, look, Parfait’s done their own Marcie,” and then “Wow, that Affinitas set reminds me of Ritzy.”  I know the lines between copying and inspiration can sometimes be fuzzy, but considering the Marcie babydoll was one of the most insanely popular full-bust pieces to hit the market in 2013 (not to mention Ewa Michalak’s babydoll, which also featured ribbon trim and a ruffled skirt), Parfait’s version hits a little too close for comfort.  What do you think?  Am I overreacting, or do you see it too?

“Coco” (Affinitas)

That discomfort aside, I feel like Affinitas and Parfait finally realized that they had a chance to present, you know, a SHOW, and they upped the glam beautifully.  The show felt edited, which consequently made each look feel more special.

“Erin” (Affinitas)

The changes Parfait/Affinitas made for their show, along with strong choices from other brands that showed (like the string quartet for Layneau and the aerialists for Kix’ies) make me really hopeful about future seasons of Lingerie Fashion Week.  I’d love to attend a season where every brand embraces the opportunity to tell their own unique story.  I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: it’s not enough to put a pretty girl in underwear and send her down the runway.  The shows that feel like walking catalogues are forgettable; the shows that feel like, you know, shows, where I leave with a stronger understanding of the brand and their style, those are opportunities for lingerie brands to reach out to fashion buyers and consumers who might be new to lingerie, and who might begin to treat lingerie as an integral part of their personal style and fashion identity.

“Danielle” (Parfait)

*****

Along those lines, some thoughts on the closing of Lingerie Fashion Week: whenever a new endeavor of this scale is starting out, there are bound to be hiccups.  This is only Lingerie Fashion Week’s third season, and it was the first season in a brand-new venue.  I hope the event continues to grow, to attract new designers and collaborators and journalists and artists, and to really showcase lingerie as a force in the fashion world.  However, this season was undeniably odd, and I left the final show feeling underwhelmed, irritated, and stressed out.

Every single show began at least an hour late, and the Affinitas/Parfait show was a full two hours late, leaving guests standing around to wait with ever-decreasing patience for doors to open.  The new venue is bigger and ostensibly more efficient, yet it’s in an isolated location, meaning that there were no nearby bars or restaurants where guests could leave to get food in the event (as it happened) that shows ran late and no food was served on-site.  Finally, the crowds are growing larger, which is great, but lingerie writers and buyers are increasingly getting shifted to the back rows, to standing room only, or to the entrance to the catwalk, where views (and photos) are obstructed, making it increasingly difficult to cover the shows thoughtfully or well (I was able to slip into a front row no-show’s seat to cover Parfait and Affinitas; my assigned seat was behind a pillar).

Worst of all, invited guests at the Parfait/Affinitas show had two hours to kill during which the only thing to do at the venue was drink, and many of them did just that, which led to a show filled with chatter, disturbances, yelling, and, jeez, I can’t believe I’m about to say this, cat-calling and wolf-whistling at the models as they walked.  Some of the invited guests seem to have confused an actual industry event with lingerie football; I even read a really sickening piece (no, I’m not linking to it, because it’s garbage, and I don’t want to give him the pageviews) by an alleged fashion writer bemoaning the fact that Lingerie Fashion Week was too boring and serious, the guests weren’t dressed fashionably enough (fuck you dude: I wore HEELS for this), and the models were unattractive: “LFW must start bringing in better looking quality models, for the sake of the show and the brands they work with. Goodlooking models make clothing look better, plain and simple, its the reason the fashion world and modeling worlds exist. Let’s be honest, more so with lingerie than any other fashion wear, people need to want to f*ck the models because the lingerie looks so good, that unfortunately happens rarely with the current model groups.”  Gross.  [UPDATE: I have just received confirmation that the blogger in question was not invited by Lingerie Fashion Week organizers. Rather, this person RSVP’d directly to a designer.]

And actually, jackass, LFW’s models are consistently great; with the exception of the Bradelis show, I saw a really wonderful (and undeniably beautiful) range of racial, age, and body diversity, even more than you might see at “real” fashion week.  I’d love to see more!  A full-figure brand’s show!  A show with more ages represented!  A show that included models with disabilities!  A show with athletes and artists!  Another fun burlesque runway performance like last year’s Secrets in Lace show!  But more importantly, the kind of “journalist” who thinks lingerie is about turning him on, or presenting him with spank bank fodder?  Why is that guy there?  Seriously.  It’s a free country bro, so you have the right to be a dickhead, but I don’t understand why he was an invited guest at the shows.  In what possible world is “people need to want to f*ck the models” a professional or appropriate piece of fashion journalism?

I love that there’s a fashion event solely dedicated to lingerie, and I am grateful and thankful that I am lucky enough to attend it.  I don’t envy the uphill climb the organizers face as they continue to expand and take on more challenging logistics.  I really, really hope that this season’s event and some of the accompanying traffic jams and hiccups have provided a clear road map of some of the logistics that will need to be tackled before August’s shows.  I want so much for the LFW to become a major player in the industry, but right now at the end of the season I’m feeling pretty exhausted and disappointed.

As a final piece of my Lingerie Fashion Week Fall/Winter ’14 coverage, I’m really happy to resurrect my sadly neglected interview series to share a conversation I had this week with Lauren Rich, the mastermind behind Lingerie Fashion Week.  She shares her thoughts about some of the huge strides the event has made in a single year, as well as some hopes for future seasons.  Take it away, Lauren!

1.  What drew you to lingerie?  I know lots of people have very individual stories about why they love it or why they think it’s important.

I think it’s more what drew lingerie to me! It seems to have been a recurring theme in my life – starting with a part time job in high school working in the intimate apparel department of the Bon Ton, then interning for FreshPair.com’s National Underwear Day in college, and ending up with an influx of lingerie brands early on in my PR career. I actually started (RICHPR) doing womenswear, but after working with so many great lingerie brands and really loving the market, I decided to focus on intimates exclusively.

2.  How did the idea for Lingerie Fashion Week come about?  Did you ever see yourself working in the lingerie industry specifically?

Coming from a womenswear background where there is so much focus on Fashion Week, one of the first things I noticed when specializing in intimates was – where is a Fashion Week for lingerie? Swimwear has one so I thought surely someone will do one for intimates. After a few more years went by expecting to see one emerge, I never did. So I pulled on my PR & events backgrounds, merging my womenswear experience with intimates experience, to launch the first Lingerie Fashion Week – with the goal twofold: to elevate the profile of lingerie designers amongst both industry and the greater consuming public, and to merge the lingerie, fashion and creative communities.

3.  You’ve got three seasons under your belt now, with new designers and more press each season. How do you feel about these successes? I know it’s mean to play favorites, but do you have a favorite show (or shows) that you really enjoyed or that surprised you?

Seeing a steady growth of brands, sponsors and press results each season is really rewarding. In one year alone we went from 6 designers to 17 designers, press mentions now totaling over 900 million media impressions to audiences from North & South America to Europe and Asia. It’s hard to choose favorites – I honestly have to take my hat off to ALL designers that have jumped on board thus far. It’s never easy to be the first to try a new concept and we are truly indebted to those who have taken this leap with us so early on. But, I have to say the shows that stand out the most are the ones that do something particularly unique. You! Lingerie putting (beautiful!) expecting models on the runway in August, Secrets in Lace holding a “halftime” burlesque performance in the middle of the their runway show (not to mention a video intro by Dita Von Teese), NOE Undergarments staging a futuristic presentation, Kix’ies Thigh Highs showcasing their collection on hoop artists and contortionists, Affinitas & Parfait this past season turning their runway this season into an “enchanted forest,” and LAYNEAU making their collection debut on models up to age 60. I also really loved FYI by Dani Read’s unique utilization of a presentation this season, staging a grand entrance and consistently transitioning her convertible pieces throughout the one-hour show.

4.  What did you feel were the successes and challenges of the most recent season of Lingerie Fashion Week?

The successes are as mentioned above – growth! Increased designer and sponsor participation, a bigger and more efficient venue, greater industry attendance, more press coverage, etc. But with growth comes growing pains, which for us this past season translated into a few logistics glitches, primarily timing delays. We also had greater on-site attendance from press and industry than ever before, but also an influx of non-industry guests that we previously didn’t experience.

We do hold one show each season that is specifically designed for and open to the public – the Closing Benefit, where of course we expect and encourage consumer attendance. All of the other shows, however, are designed to target (lingerie and fashion) press and industry members only. That said, we as Lingerie Fashion Week do not control the guest lists. You can think of us as an umbrella – we are the platform that hosts individual shows and events. When a designer comes on board, they are in control of their show, from creative direction and models, décor to guest list. We as Lingerie Fashion Week do however receive many incoming inquiries from press wanting to attend. For these individuals we send a Press Application, which, if approved, puts them on a Press Accreditation List that is distributed to each season’s designers. Designers can then review the list and reach out to those they’d like to invite – all of whom, of course, have been pre-screened by us. Many individuals, however, will reach out to designers (and/or their PR teams) directly, in which case it is up to that designer’s direction alone to accept or decline an RSVP. While we cannot completely control a designer’s guest list, we will be taking steps to better monitor and advise in seasons moving forward to streamline attendance.

5.  I know you were as dismayed as I was by the incredibly misogynistic blog post that was written about LFW, its designers, and its models.  What is your response?  I know free speech and all that, but do you have any plans to further enforce some journalistic standards for future seasons?

Well. Of course constructive criticism is one thing, but talking about models (and women, for that matter) in a misogynistic way is never acceptable, especially in the sensitive context of lingerie. We are proud that our designers hire models of all body shapes and sizes, and wouldn’t have it any other way. As with any venture, along with growth also means being further out there in the public – resulting in a greater opportunity for anyone to say anything. Unfortunately there is nothing we can do to prevent people from saying what they want, positive or negative, appropriate or inappropriate, true or untrue. We hope the public can use best judgment to discern for themselves what is constructive criticism, and what’s simply inappropriate. And we can of course do our best in future seasons to advise designers on guest lists per above, and continue to implement our Press Application process to pre-screen press members on our end.

6.  Where do you see the show in five years?

Hopefully continuing to grow by leaps and bounds! What exactly those leaps are – I couldn’t predict. Generally speaking however, I hope each season to bring on even further diversity in brands and models, more creativity in show concepts and execution, building on greater and greater press coverage, and of course offering a seamless, valuable experience for designers, sponsors and guests.

*     *     *     *     *

A huge thanks to Lauren for sharing her thoughts with me this week in response to my post about the final runway show.  Now that I’ve wrapped up coverage, are there any shows that really stood out to you?  Brands you’d like to see in person?  Pieces you loved?  I’d love to hear what you think!

I feel like I’ve been saying this a lot lately, but I’ll say it again for good measure: Figleaves is on fire lately.

“Coco Lace” in Emerald by Lulu Tout ($38.00). Available exclusively at Figleaves in sizes 30-34 DD-H and 36-38 DD-G (UK). Brief ($25.00) and thong ($24.00) available in sizes 8-18 (UK), coordinating balconette bra ($38.00) in sizes 30-38 A-DD.

I’ve shopped from Figleaves for several years now, and I’ve consistently found a huge selection of my favorite brands, discovered great brands that were new to me, and had good-to-stellar customer service.  It wasn’t until late in 2013 that I began to take notice of some of the fabulous exclusive items Figleaves was beginning to carry, including lingerie, swim, and clothing items designed to fit up to a  G-cup, in a really phenomenal range of shapes and styles.

I was even more delighted earlier this year when I got to visit the Figleaves showroom in New York and see a preview of brand-new Lulu Tout, the first Figleaves-exclusive brand available from an A-cup up to an H-cup (in UK sizes, equivalent to a K-cup in American sizes).  The Lulu Tout bras I saw featured elegant details, beautiful colors, and lovely shapes, all at a great price point: about $38 for a bra and $63 for a set!

I was so delighted when Figleaves offered me a set for review, and as much as I loved all of the styles available, I didn’t hesitate to choose the pretty “Coco Lace” style in Emerald.  There aren’t a ton of sheer bras past a G-cup (although Miss Mandalay’s “Paris” is a great example), and I will always, always, always love green lingerie. I requested the bra in my “usual” (Panache, Bravissimo, Eveden) size, and the briefs in my usual (Panache, Curvy Kate) size.

[Note: while Figleaves generously provided this set for review, all thoughts and opinions are my own.]

Appearance

The overall look of the bra definitely shares DNA with the “Paige Italian Lace” style from fellow Figleaves brand Midnight Grace.  As I love the look of that bra, you’ll get no complaints from me.  The top of the cup features super-sheer emerald mesh with an elegant, shimmering striped lace outer sling running from the bottom of the cup all the way up to the strap, to ensure a centered, lifted shape.

I love this unusual construction: the bra features a fully finished three-part mesh cup, backed with an extra layer of light beige mesh for added stability, with a completely separate lace outer sling.

Inside cup view

My favorite feature?  The keyhole in the center gore!  I see this detail a lot in smaller-cupped bras, and it’s so lovely to see one in larger sizes as well.

The bra features fully adjustable straps and closes with two rows of three columns of hooks and eyes.

The shorts feature the same pretty striped lace and a double layer of green mesh across the back. They’re cut quite low and straight across both the waist and leg-lines.

Fit

I’d heard a few reviews mention that some Midnight Grace styles ran small in the cup and band, so I was trying to lower my expectations to convince myself that there was no way the cups were going to fit me.  To my surprise and delight, they are perfect!  I’m quite full all around, and so sometimes even bras in the right size are too shallow in one area or another, but I get a good, projected shape in Lulu Tout.  That beautiful sheer top cup is a little flimsier than some others (because it’s, you know, sheer), so while I wouldn’t necessarily recommend the bra for a day of strenuous activities, the fit is still a great everyday (or special occasion) fit: the wires lie flush against my sternum and ribcage, the cup is smooth with no digging or wrinkling, and all of my breast tissue is scooped into the cups.

The slightly bad news (or good for some, as I’ll explain): the band is both small and super firm.  It’s much smaller than almost any other brand I wear, and it has very, very little stretch in it.  I could hook it closed, but after about thirty minutes I realized it was digging in way too painfully, giving me deep, angry red marks around my ribcage and making the lace under the cups dig into my tender skin.  I’ve now worn it a few times with an extender, which is much, much more comfortable.

I thought about ordering a sister size or two, to experiment with some different fits, but unfortunately Lulu Tout is only available up to an H-cup in 30-34 brands, while it runs up to a G-cup in 36-38 bands, which means that my true sister size isn’t available.  I know this may be disappointing to some, but bear in mind that it’s much more beneficial for a brand to launch their first season with sizes and fits they feel confident in, before they expand their size range.  Hopefully after a few seasons and some wearer feedback we’ll see some G+ sizes in fuller band sizes.

The upside to this is that some women who would ordinarily wear 28 backs might consider giving Lulu Tout 30 bands a try!  If you like firm bands, Lulu Tout runs small enough (in my personal experience, of course) that it might work well for those on the smaller end of the size spectrum.  I’d be really interested to hear from any 28-band wearers who try Lulu Tout to see what they think!

I requested the briefs in my usual size (same as I’d wear in Curvy Kate or Panache, and one size up from Freya and Bravissimo).  When I pulled them out of the box I thought they looked too wide, and while yes, I think a smaller size would help with fit, there are also some, um, intimate spots where the fit is pretty darn wonky. I think a combination of factors, including a too-narrow gusset and no seaming or shaping across the seat, leads to a brief that can’t curve to accommodate or hug my natural shape (which is by no means unusually curvaceous– I’ve got a pretty flat butt, if I’m being honest with myself).  The briefs ride up and slide around with every step, and they chafe something fierce by the end of the day.

 Comfort

Bad news first: I’m probably going to toss the briefs. The fit is poor and they’re wildly uncomfortable, and I’d like to see Lulu Tout go back to the drawing board and start from scratch for them.  The good news is that I love this bra.  Adding an extender completely alleviates any discomfort I felt in the too-tight band, and while I don’t count it as one of my “workhorse” bras that I’d want to wear for a day full of movement and activity (plus Tall Girl Quibble: the straps are a little too short, such is my life), it’s definitely a bra that I can wear comfortably to work or out for drinks in the evenings.

Overall

I think Figleaves has launched an exceptionally lovely new DD+ collection. The bras are feminine and delicate with wonderful shape, projection, and support; I also really love the similarly constructed “Fleur Rose“. “Coco Lace” is also available in A-DD sizes, and both the A-DD and DD-H bras are available in Emerald as well as a chic Grey. I am so impressed by the designs, the size ranges, the fit, and the affordable price point. Lulu Tout is a winner, and I can’t wait to see what styles will come in future seasons!

Special thanks to Miss Underpinnings for acting as photographer.

Today’s post is a collaboration with my good lingerie friend Miss Underpinnings.  We shared almost all of our press appointments during CurveNY, and we talked about underwear A LOT.  I love her decisive, insightful, thought-out analyses of seasonal trends as well as her finely honed personal style, and we thought it would be a fun opportunity to share our conversations about the upcoming seasons with our readers!  Today’s post kicks off a series of collaborative posts in which we discuss trends, share our favorite picks from upcoming seasons, and occasionally violently disagree on whether a bra is atrocious or magical.  Without further ado, let’s dive in!

Overall the consensus is that F/W 14 is a really strong season, and certainly stronger season than the last.  Spring/Summer had some real hits and misses– odd colors, dreary lookbooks, timid or too-safe designs, and quite a few mis-fires.  While some brands seemed stronger merely because they were course-correcting, others offered some genuinely great designs in exciting, on-trend colors and styles.

Speaking of trends, here are some we noticed!  [Subtle segue, no?]  This post is a long one, but it lays the groundwork for some of the rest of our coverage, plus, come on, we all like talking about bras all the time, yes?

COLORS

Purple

Clockwise from top left: Sculptresse “Paradise” in Butterfly Print, Fantasie “Rebecca” in Violet and “Elodie” in Magenta, Sculptresse “Pure Lace” in Purple/Pink, Claudette “Odette” in Dahlia/Pointe Shoe and “Dessous” in Dahlia/Caipirinha, Panache “Idina” in Navy/Pink, Masquerade “Ardour” in Mulberry, Fauve “Chloe” in Purple, Parfait “Danielle” and “Carole” in Imperial Purple, Elomi “Betty” in Purple

These rich purple shades are autumnal powerhouses, and with good reason.  They tend to be warm and flattering, and they appeal to a wide range of consumers.  I love the pretty Claret color that’s coming for Panache’s Colette, one of the styles I’m most looking forward to trying this Spring. Sculptresse adds a Purple/Pink combination for their Pure Lace collection, as well as a pretty purple butterfly print for their first ever babydoll.  Fantasie will offer a purple Rebecca, and Elomi offers a cute purple for Betty, which I [Sweets] unfortunately think is let down by contrasting raspberry embroidery.  Somehow the pink/purple/polka dot combo skews too juvenile for me, but then again that may just be me. Even Masquerade offers a vibrant purple bra, but unfortunately we found the plain molded plunge shape to be rather boring for a brand that usually focuses on exceptionally elegant shapes and details.

Ruby and Raspberry

Clockwise from top left: Panache “Andorra” in Scarlet, Curvy Kate “Jewel” in Ruby/Spice, Curvy Kate “Daisie” in Ruby Print, Panache “Tango” in Scarlet, Cleo “Marcie” in Raspberry, Curvy Kate “Ritzy” in Ruby/Spice, Fantasie “Allegra” in Rouge, Panache “Tango Accenti” in Mulberry

We saw lots and lots of bright reds and berry shades, appropriate considering that most F/W collections include some special “holiday” pieces.  Panache will offer a wonderful assortment of shades across some of their most popular collections, like Andorra, Tango, Tango Accenti, Idina, and Porcelain, as well as a vibrant Raspberry for Masquerade’s Angie.  Ever-popular Maddie and Marcie from Cleo both return in a rich, radiant raspberry that is a fantastic match for Marcie’s sweet Swiss dot fabric.  Fantasie offers Melissa in magenta with gleaming blue embroidery, Elodie in magenta with black lace, and beautiful Allegra in red, and Curvy Kate offers Boysenberry and Ruby as two of their major seasonal fashion colors.  Elomi offers a lovely Cerise for Amelia and Flame for Bijou.

Regal Autumnal Tones

Empreinte “Misia” in Amarante and “Marlene” in Noir, Panache “Clara” in Black/Gold, Angela Friedman “Evelyn” corset in Purple, Claudette “Paloma” in Cayenne, Mimi Holliday “Rum and Raisin” slip, Masquerade “Aleah” in Charcoal, Fauve “Lavinia” in Black/Pistachio, Masquerade “Antoinette” in Ruby/Black, Huit “Belle de Jour” in Clementine

While bright reds and purples are all very well, we saw some really beautiful autumnal shades across a range of hues. Masquerade’s Antoinette shows up in a classic black lace/ruby satin combination, a welcome return to form for a collection that looked a little drab over the last few seasons. We also saw some unusual burnt oranges, gleaming olive-green, and some major spice from Claudette and Curvy Kate.  Claudette in particular wins points for daring with an unusual Pointe Shoe/Old Penny color pairing that shouldn’t work at all and is instead magnificent.  Mimi Holliday gets into the act with a super-dark hunter green Rum and Raisin collection, and we also LOVED the olive-green Amelie strapless bra and Brazilian brief from Masquerade– I can’t think of a single other brand that offers (or that has ever offered) a so-called “solution” bra in such a sophisticated shape and color.

The Blues

Clockwise from top left: Claudette “Sophia” in Club Med, Cleo “Neve” in Blue, Claudette “Bardot” in Club Med, Fantasie “Ivana” in Teal and “Susannah” in Moonlight, Parfait “Leslie” in Blue/Black, Masquerade “Alice” in Ink, Dollhouse Bettie “Lotus Blossom” babydoll, Parfait “Danielle” in Peacock Blue, Curvy Kate “Princess” and “Roxie” in Night/Silver

Navy is an unexpectedly popular alternative to black this season, with offerings ranging from the clean lines of Parfait’s Jeannie molded plunge bra to the luxe sophistication of Masquerade’s Alice slip.  Blue turned up as the primary color for Nevaeh’s Fall/Winter collection, and it leant a cool kick to Parfait’s animal-print Leslie set.  Elomi’s Caitlyn gets a rich Ink colorway, and Sculptresse is FINALLY cute y’all, with a new navy blue with white polka-dot range called Flirtini that is legitimately delightful and retro without looking cheesy.

Neons/Brights

Clockwise from top left: Huit “Melisande” in Acid Green, Claudette “Odette” in Caipirinha/Elsa Pink, Curvy Kate “Dreamcatcher” and “Starlet” in Frost/Boysenberry, Claudette “Fishnet” in Caipirinha/Pointe Shoe, Freya “Rapture” in Neon, Claudette “Fishnet” in Caipirinha/Pointe Shoe, Cleo “Kali” in Neon Lime, Claudette “Dessous” in Malibu/Caipirinha, Mimi Holliday “Calypso”

Claudette presented another winning season of neon brights, from vibrant purple Dahlia to sizzling Elsa Pink (after the great Elsa Schiaparelli) and hot lime green Caipirinha.  They even had two different sample sizes at the booth, so I [Sweets] got to try on my first Dessous!  It was too small, as expected, but so, so soft, light, and comfy (and the straps were long enough!  What a miracle!).  While there’s still no projected date for a G+ size expansion, getting a little taste of this fabulous bra was enough to whet my appetite.  Even beyond Claudette though, Freya, Cleo, Panache, and Sculptresse all offer some sizzling bright colors to heat up the cold Winter nights.  Panache’s sports bra’s new colors feature electric lime and blue, Sculptresse’s Pure Lace gets a hot purple/pink update, and Mimi Holliday offers several pretty collections with neutral/neon contrasts.

Blush and Ballet Pink

Clockwise from top left: Dottie’s Delights, Madame Supertrash “Mademoiselle”, Dollhouse Bettie “Juliet”, Angela Friedman “Musette” chemise in Pink, Claudette “Dessous”, “Paloma”, and “Bardot” in Pointe Shoe, Mimi Holliday “Mr Whippy”, Claudette “Fishnet” in Pointe Shoe

Oh MAN there are some pretty paler hues coming at the end of this year.  Claudette won us over with their Pointe Shoe color, on account of nostalgia and permanent inner desire to be a ballerina.  From full-bust favorite Freya (a new Deco style Vibe) to indie and luxury brands like Dottie’s Delights, Madame Supertrash, Mimi Holliday and Angela Friedman, soft peach, pink, and blush tones abounded.  The color always reminds us of classic silk lingerie from the 1920s-30s, and we love seeing how current designers put their own spin on it.

Interesting Neutrals

Clockwise from top left: Fantasie “Allegra” in Butterscotch, Empreinte “Melody” in Caramel and “Marlene” in Cristal, Fantasie “Eclipse” in Ombre, Empreinte “Misia” in Muscade, Freya “Deco Vibe” in Mocha, Fantasie “Rebecca Mirage” in Smoke Grey, Mimi Holliday “Solero”

It takes a lot to get me (hi, Sweets here) pumped about neutrals, and I’m often guilty of thinking “If I never see a beige bra again, it’ll be too soon.”  We were, however, totally pleased and impressed by the range of neutral shades designers are trying on for size.  Several brands use soft fawn colors that deepen to mauve and dusty rose, still others are expanding to warm brown and mocha shades.  We love seeing brands reach out beyond the default beige for neutrals that will match a variety of skin tones and simultaneously act as fashion colors.  Thumbs up, more please!

PRINTS AND PATTERNS

1980s/Kitsch

Clockwise from top left: Cleo “Izzy” in Star Print, Freya “Instinct” in Magenta, Huit “Petite Coquette” in Popcorn, Fantasie “Mollie” in Confetti, Freya “Doodle” in Hot Pink and “Ignite” in Yellow, Cleo “Nyla” in Floral Print

So much color everywhere this season!  Curvy Kate, Cleo, Freya, and even Fantasie all got into the colorful, slightly-retro/slightly-Saved-by-the-Bell prints act, with varying degrees of success.  We were divided on some of the prints from CK, Cleo, and Freya (one of us would strongly like something but the other strongly wouldn’t), but unanimous in our dislike of the odd, off-note black-and-white print “Mollie” from Fantasie.  It feels a bit like it’s trying to offer the Fantasie customer a Freya-style bra, but it just doesn’t work.

Animal

Clockwise from top left: Elomi “Kenza” in Jungle, Parfait “Jeannie” in Panther Print, Elomi “Kayla” in Pecan Eden, Freya “Instinct” in Magenta and “Deco” in Rebel, Elomi “Lexi” in Java, Cleo “Juna” in Teal, Parfait “Leslie” in Blue/Black.

Animal prints are popular classics, but they’ve come out in full force for Fall/Winter.  Cleo offers their bubbly take with a turquoise Juna, Panache brings out another version of Jasmine in the frosty Snow Leopard, and Freya  will release Rebel as a new Deco continuity color.  Goddess branched out from offering animal prints in one shade to present a vibrantly multicolor animal/floral mix for Kayla.  As for Elomi … well, we called theirs (Kenza) the “Fern Gully” bra when we were feeling charitable and the “Swamp Monster” bra when we weren’t.  We’ll cover this one more in a future post.  Fortunately, Elomi will also offer a soft, pretty owl feather print called Lexi that restores my faith in animal-print bras a bit.

Tattoo or Sheer + Contrast

Clockwise from top left: Fauve “Isla” in Midnight, Empreinte “Melody Onyx” in Noir, Mimi Holliday “Fab” star knicker in Bubblegum Pink, Harlow & Fox “Isabelle”, Fleur of England “Caviar” bodysuit, Elomi “Bijou Soiree” in Black, Huit “New Idylle” Bodysuit in Bordeaux

A Miss Underpinnings/Sweet Nothings unanimous favorite?  We noticed an explosion of sheer backgrounds with contrasting solid details laid over them.  Fleur of England is the ringleader of the luxury markets, but Fauve (gorgeous new style Isla), Mimi Holliday, Elomi (fabulous new Bijou Soiree), and Harlow & Fox all got in on the act.  We love this trend!  Sweets’ favorite is hands-down Mimi Holliday’s “Fab” bodysuit and faux-cage-back knicker, featuring pale, super-sheer mesh and contrasting hot pink trim.

Wallpaper Florals

Clockwise from top left: Parfait “Casey” in Black/Rose Print, Panache “Jasmine” in Black Ricamo, Curvy Kate “Wonderland” in Boysenberry Print, Sunday Intimates “Stanwyck” in Red Rose, Freya “Deco Darling” in Noir, Fantasie “Abigail” in Black, Panache “Fern” in Navy Floral

This one surprised us!  We expect florals for Spring, but not only were there an unusually large number of autumnal floral prints, but many of them were big, graphic, oversized, “wallpaper” type prints.  A few ditsy florals slipped in, but mostly we saw large and lush florals from Freya (Deco Darling), Fantasie (Abigail), Parfait (Delphine and Casey), Sunday Intimates (the fabulous rose-print Stanwyck), Panache’s Fern, and Curvy Kate’s abstract Wonderland.  Weirdly, either there’s been some kind of designer mind meld, or everyone read the same trend reports, but we’ve seen not one, not two, but three oversized pansy prints from Freya (Pansy, see below), Sculptresse (May), and ASOS.  You heard it here first: pansies are hot for Fall.  Apparently.

Menswear

Sunday Intimates “Marlowe” Bra and High-Waisted Brief

I always appreciate menswear-inspired elements in women’s lingerie, for two reasons: for one thing, some women want beautiful underwear, but they just aren’t pink or lace or dots or frills kind of people, and for another, the contrast between traditionally feminine shapes and in traditionally masculine prints and patterns can really add interest and dimension to otherwise classic designs.  Case in point: Fleur of England’s sumptuous silk Edinborough collection, a delightful departure from their stunning guipure and mesh pieces.  Elomi’s Eva, Panache’s Envy, which gets a fashion color for F/W in Cassis, and Sunday Intimates all used beautiful plaids, tartans, and houndstooth.  I love that Sunday included a menswear pattern in their film noir-inspired F/W collection– it makes me think of a sassy lady detective in a hat and trench coat.

STYLES AND SHAPES

Bodysuits

Clockwise from top left: Fleur of England “Caviar” bodysuit, Panache “Envy” bodysuit, Huit “New Idylle” bodysuit in Bordeaux, Fantasie “Echo Lace” bodysuit, Freya “Ooh La La” bodysuit in Flame, NaiS bodysuit in Emerald, Mimi Holliday “Fab” bodysuit in Bubblegum Pink.

While longline bras are here to stay (more in a second), we feel pretty confident saying that the bodysuit is the next big shape, especially in full-bust land.  Huit reprises their beautiful bodysuit from last season in a gorgeous deep red, ticking the boxes for the tattoo trend and the bodysuit in one fell swoop.  NaiS’ lace bodysuit remains one of my favorite pieces, and best of all, three full-bust powerhouses will offer bodysuits in some of their most popular ranges.  Freya’s Ooh La La body returns in a bright red, Fantasie will offer Echo Lace as a black bodysuit, and my personal fave, Panache will release a bodysuit version of Envy that goes up to a K-cup and just looks fantastic.  This is a shape we cannot wait to try!

Longline Bras

Clockwise from top left: Curvy Kate “Carmen” in Black/Boysenberry, Sunday Intimates “Lolita” in Black, Parfait “Danielle” in Peacock Blue, Claudette “Dessous” in Pointe Shoe/Malibu Polka Dot/Elsa Pink, Freya “Pansy” in Midnight

As I mentioned last season, these are still super popular, particularly for retro and pinup aficionados, but we do see the shape continuing to evolve a bit towards a more contemporary look.  Parfait’s Danielle is still totally gorgeous, Freya is sticking with their tried and true padded half cup shape, Mimi Holliday introduces new longline style Neopolitan, Claudette returns with another fetching Dessous longline, and Sunday Intimates presents with a tight, cohesive collection featuring some truly fantastic longline bras, including the cool leather-look Lolita.  Insert Sweets’ customary moan about whyyyyy will no one do a G+ non-padded longline bra, holy PANTS she wants one, and we’ll move right along.

High-Waist Briefs

Clockwise from top left: Claudette “Paloma” in Pointe Shoe, Sunday Intimates “Billy” in Black/Red, Angela Friedman “Adrienne” in Black, Sunday Intimates “Marlowe”, Curvy Kate “Smoothie” in Wild Black, Mimi Holliday “Mr Whippy” high-waisted corset knicker

Like longline bras, this is a shape that can scream “retro” or “pinup”, but we’ve seen so many brands offer their own, distinct versions.  Mimi Holliday’s are all lace, of course, Curvy Kate relaunches Smoothie with some high-waisted lightly-shaping laser-cut briefs, Sculptresse offers some colorful, flattering high-waist coordinates, and Sunday Intimates offers some of the prettiest ones around, including the cute Marlowe briefs with a delicate, subtle lace peplum detail!

Stretch Lace

We didn’t do a full collage for this one, but we thought it was really interesting to note how stretch lace has rapidly become an invaluable player in the bra world.  It offers sheer, pretty, flexible support that will adapt to suit smaller or fuller breasts, depending on the wearer.  Panache’s Jasmine and Envy styles, Natori’s Feathers, Freya’s new Icon plunge bra and balcony bra, and Sculptresse’s new Chi Chi bra (which hits several trends at once, with a neon/bright animal print and coordinating high-waist briefs [ed.- FINALLY, a Jasmine-like bra for fuller band sizes.  It's about time]) all feature stretch lace on the cups for smooth, flexible coverage and support.  Hurray for stretch lace!

What do you think of this glimpse of the Fall/Winter 2014 collections? We’ll have more coverage in the coming weeks, so please stay tuned!

We had a few days (well, like one and a half days) of sun and (slightly) warmer weather last week, and that little taste of Spring was enough to make me want to whip up a batch of these lovely delicate cookies. I love using savory herbs in desserts– they taste fresh and light, a nice change of pace from the sometimes heavy flavors of cream and chocolate and caramel. This recipe is my mother’s, and it’s super fuss-free: just combine all the ingredients in an electric mixer and you’re on your way to tender, delicately-scented cookies, perfect for warmer, breezy days. That I’m sure are coming. Any minute now. (Go away, cold.)

Rosemary Cookies

½ c. (1 stick, 1/4 pound) unsalted butter, room temperature
½ c. vegetable oil
½ c. granulated sugar
½ c. confectioner’s sugar
1 egg
½ tsp. vanilla
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. cream of tartar
2 c. all-purpose flour
1 tbsp. fresh rosemary leaves, chopped (or 1 tsp. dry)

Extra granulated sugar, for finishing.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Line several baking sheets with parchment paper. Combine all ingredients except rosemary in the bowl of an electric mixer and mix on medium speed until well-combined, about two minutes.  Add rosemary and mix in gently until just combined.

Roll the dough into small balls (the cookies puff and spread quite a bit during baking, so you should probably use less dough than you think you should, and also yes, I learned the hard way) and place on ungreased cookie sheet, leaving at least two inches of space between each cookie.  Dip the bottom of a small juice glass into granulated sugar and use it to gently flatten each cookie, re-dipping before each new cookie.  Bake in preheated oven for 6 minutes.  Rotate the cookie sheets 180 degrees and bake for an additional 4-6 minutes until cookies are just golden brown and firm.

Makes 4-6 dozen depending on size.

No, Gus.

*****

For our lingerie pairing, I need to draw your attention to all the fun things going on in Kiss Me Deadly’s hosiery section. I’m prepping for a photoshoot next month and have been driven to distraction by how sad the stockings selection is in New York. I’d wanted to source my wardrobe entirely from local retailers, but between an unusual bra size and an insistence on fun hosiery, that dream died pretty quickly. Fortunately the UK is the land of super-fun lingerie and stockings, and Kiss Me Deadly has just unveiled some fabulous new items. These sassy green seamed stockings are also available as opaques, and they come in a fantastic range of colors (dyed to match your Kiss Me Deadly lingerie, naturally).

Sheer Contrast Seamed Stockings In Emerald by Kiss Me Deadly (£10.00). Available in sizes S/M, M/L, and XL.

“Marvel” is one of the first new shapes Freya has introduced in quite a while.  Freya’s current lineup features the Deco range (molded cups), a half-cup padded bra and longline bra, and a plunge balcony/balcony bra that goes up to a K-cup.  There are some variations on this formula (some are sheer, some are lace, some have lower or higher wires, etc.), but in general once you find a shape you like in Freya you can be sure to see it in a few different colors or patterns each season.  So the introduction of Marvel as a new continuity style was a pretty exciting development, and made me hopeful that Freya might be on their way to a new (better) G+ shape (as the balcony bras and sports bra do not work for me at all past a G-cup). I recently found Marvel in my size at a deep discount on Amazon and decided to take it out for a spin. In general I don’t get along with half-cup bras, despite being fairly full-on-top, but I’d heard that this shape, with non-padded cups (yay!) and a side panel, might work really well for me.

Appearance

Marvel is a non-padded padded bra with two vertical seams for shape and uplift (one seam is connected to a side panel, for an upfront and centered look). The beige colorway features simple white mesh trim along the top of the cup, a bow at the center gore, and fully adjustable ribbed straps, while both the black continuity and this Spring’s white “Glacier” colorways feature contrasting, bubbly dots (in purple and seafoam green, respectively). The bra closes with three columns of two rows of hooks and eyes.

Not the loveliest, but definitely not the worst, right? A totally fine beige bra.

Fit

I’ll go ahead and get it out of the way, this bra is a bust (no pun intended) on me. It’s not a bad bra, by any means, but as soon as I pulled it out of the bag I sensed the imminent disaster. The main reason? The underwire is one of the bendiest underwires I’ve seen in my size range in quite some time. It’s thin, super-flexible, and angles sharply backwards under the arms, rather than swooping up vertically. I haven’t had luck with underwires like this in the past, and my fears proved well founded.

In better news, I found the bra “true to size”, so those of you who find some Freya bands too stretchy may be happy with the fit of Marvel. I fastened mine comfortably on the loosest set of hooks, I had enough length in the straps (yay!), and the bra does indeed give a very round shape, with none of the retro pointiness of some of Freya’s other styles (which I don’t mind, but I know some others prefer a super-round shape).

That being said, the shape of this bra is all wrong for me. Though there’s plenty of room in the cup, the center gore doesn’t tack, the wires are wider than I need them at the sides, and the bottom of the cups are too shallow for me. I keep wanting to yank the underwires forward to get a narrower, more projected shape, which is sort of the same feeling I get in Elomi bras. I can sense that the longer I wear this bra, the more the band will continue to pull the wires backwards, causing the cups to flatten even more. The cup volume is probably fine, but it’s too spread out: I have empty space in the bottom and sides of the cups, and I don’t feel very secure or supported.

Comfort

While I like parts of the bra (the fabric feels silky and smooth, I love that it’s not padded, and the straps are long enough), overall Marvel is a bit of a letdown. Well, it is for me, but my boobs are not everyone’s boobs. I suspect someone with a wider breast root and shallower profile might love Marvel (I can in fact think of several friends who might really like it), but I’m returning mine.  I’m sad the new shape didn’t work out for me, because I feel like I’m about ready to stop trying Freya bras altogether.

When I wore a G-cup or smaller Freya was hands-down my favorite brand. They were the first bras I ever wore that made me feel lifted, stable, and supported, plus they came in fantastic prints or colors. Part of the reason I’ve switched loyalties over to Freya’s competitors for G+ bras is the variety of shapes those brands offer, as well as stronger, sturdier underwires.  While I don’t get along with some Panache classics like Tango and Andorra, I have quite a few other styles in my size range to choose from three Panache brands (Cleo, Panache, and Masquerade) like Jasmine, Colette, Marcie, and Lily. Bravissimo’s balconettes work beautifully for me, and though it’s taken a while, I think I’ve finally found my first really great fit in Curvy Kate (review to come!). These brands are winning me over not because I’ve found one shape that works well, but because I’ve found several. I’m more likely to recommend these brands to clients, because I know that my G+ clients in particular will have more choices. If Freya wants to focus their energies on B-G cup sizes I wouldn’t blame them: they do very, very well in that size range, and moreover stores will always buy that size range. But after another season of limited G+ fashion styles, no new developments for an H+ Active customer, and an upcoming season filled with more of the same, I’m about ready to give up. Freya, darling, we had a good thing while it lasted. Be good to my B-G sisters.

*****

Marvel is available in Black, Beige, and Glacier in sizes 28-38 D-H (UK), with matching brief, short, and thong in sizes XS-XL. You can find Marvel at Figleaves, Freshpair, Bravissimo, Brastop, Large Cup Lingerie, and others.

For more Marvel reviews, check out Miss Underpinnings, Bras I Hate & Love, Petite & Plentiful, Faustine’s Foundations and Fussy Busty. I’m interested to see that some women who wear band sizes on the smaller end of the spectrum found the cups both narrow and projected; maybe Freya needs to revamp the proportions of their larger sizes?

While I haven’t personally run the gauntlet of wedding dress + lingerie shopping, I’ve accompanied women who have, and I have to say: not impressed. I talked about it a little bit here, but mostly I’ve been genuinely taken aback by the occasionally insensitive, uninformed, and even downright body-snarky comments I’ve heard from store associates in bridal salons and even, alas, in some lingerie boutiques.

My general understanding of wedding dress shopping was that the Average Jane will almost always need to alter her gown. So I thought that wedding dress shopping would be fairly stress-free, at least from a fit point of view: you’d buy one that was maybe a bit big in some places, and you’d get it tailored to suit your specific body later, and hurray: perfect dress. I was astonished, therefore, to watch as my friend’s (completely lovely and frankly fairly common, size-and-shape-wise) body was picked apart bit by bit. Store associates and “fitters” shamed her for not fitting into sample sizes, they gasped dramatically when she told them her bra size, and they told her in hushed voices with furrowed brows that the gown she was trying would only fit “a DD”.

I refer you gently, as always, to my rant about how you’re not a cup size, and also how there’s no such thing as “a D cup”.

Bride by Vaughan Bass

In response to experiences like the one above, I’m working on a few posts and reviews about bridal lingerie, and I’d love to hear from any of you who have had similar (or, hopefully, different) experiences. I put out a call on Facebook, but as Facebook is showing my posts to, like, seven of you, let’s bring it back to home base:

As a bride, attendant, parent, or friend: what was your experience of wedding dress and/or wedding lingerie shopping? Did you get the support and and find the style you wanted? How knowledgeable were the store associates when you bought your dress? What advice did your tailor or seamstress offer? Anything you wish you’d done differently, or that you’re struggling to find? I’d love to hear from those who had either positive and not-so-positive experiences, as well as what some of you who are still shopping might specifically be looking for. If you have questions about wedding lingerie, lay them on me!